The Science of Spice

153

SUMAC

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Flavour Group | SWEET-SOUR ACIDS | Sumac

BLEND TO TRY

Use and adapt this recipe for a

classic Syrian seasoning:

Za’atar p22

RELEASE THE FLAVOUR

Much like salt, sumac enhances the

flavours of foods to which it is added. Use

powder to experience the full intensity of

sumac’s dry tartness and aroma.

BLENDING SCIENCE

Sumac owes its sharp, mouth-puckering tartness to high levels of organic acids

(mainly citric, tartaric, and malic acids) and astringent tannins. Fragrance comes

from the terpenes caryophyllene, which has a musty, woody aroma, and pinene,

which carries a fresh, pine-like aroma. “Green” aldehydes, such as earthy

decenal and fruity, floral nonanal, complement the freshness.

FOOD PARTNERS

Root vegetables Sprinkle ground

sumac over roasted root vegetables.

Tomatoes Garnish sliced ripe

tomatoes with sumac and a drizzle of

pomegranate molasses.

Chickpeas Sprinkle over hummus

or fried chickpeas, or use in falafels.

Meat Use sumac to garnish grilled

or roast chicken or quail, with oil as a

marinade for meat, or in lamb kofte.

Fish Sprinkle sumac over Lebanese-

style spicy baked fish.

Yogurt and cheeses Scatter sumac

over a whipped feta and tahini dip, baked

feta, or fresh labneh with herbs, or over

grilled halloumi.

Kitchen

creativity

Sumac has a sharp, acidic taste, reminiscent of lemon balm, and a spicy, earthy,

woody aroma. It can be used in any dish that calls for lemon zest or lemon

juice, or as a seasoning added like salt.

combine with sweet

or citrus spices to

balance the sour

acids:

coriander

contributes harmonizing

lemon and shared

floral notes, and adds

eucalyptus

nutmeg used

sparingly brings warm,

earthy spiciness

cinnamon and

cassia bring warming

sweetness and

accentuate floral

notes; cassia also

adds bitterness

anise balances

with sweet liquorice

and adds nuances of

cherry, creamy vanilla,

and cocoa

allspice adds

sweet peppery warmth

combine with other

spices containing

pinene that will give

a complementary

flavour profile:

juniper brings

strong pine aromas,

slight sweetness, and

a gentle bitterness to

contrast sumac’s

acidic sourness

pair with spices

that complement

the “green” fruity,

floral flavours:

cardamom brings

strong eucalyptus

notes and is a great

match, thanks to its

floral and green, herby

profile; limonene adds

aromatic depth to

sumac’s citrus

sourness

vanilla adds rich,

mellow creaminess

and subtle cherry notes

DECENAL AND

NONANAL

green | fruity |

floral

TANNINS AND

ORGANIC ACIDS

sharp | astringent |

acidic

PINENE

woody | spicy |

camphorous

pair with spices

that enhance the

woody, spicy

warmth:

cumin, when

roasted, produces

flavour compounds

that closely parallel

caryophyllene, shares

pinene, and brings

roasted, nutty pyrazines

fresh ginger’s

sweet lemony flavours

complement sumac’s

citrus sourness, while

developing a subtle

underlying spiciness

CARYOPHYLLENE

woody | spicy |

warming

The strained juice

has a milder flavour

that works well in

jellies and sweet,

summery drinks.

Sprinkle sumac as a

garnish over a finished

dish for maximum

impact, rather than at

the start of cooking.

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