The Science of Spice

163

CACAO

Cc

Flavour Group | FRUITY ALDEHYDES | Cacao

Roast nibs in an oven at 140°C (275°F)

for 10–15 minutes.

Roasting also

creates nutty

pyrazine flavours

RELEASE THE FLAVOUR

Unroasted (“raw”) cacao nibs are not

sweet and much more bitter than

chocolate. Roasting them before use

helps to remove some of the bitterness.

BLENDING SCIENCE

Cacao contains about 600 flavour compounds, and their relative amounts vary by

region, tree variety, and processing method. Bitterness is partly produced by two

stimulant compounds, caffeine and theobromine, which turn into bitter pyrazines on

roasting. Cacao also contains sweet-tasting aldehydes and ketones, as well as fruity

alcohols and phenols. Pyrazines also give the spice its roasted, nutty flavours.

FOOD PARTNERS

Fennel, pumpkin Sprinkle nibs over

a fennel and blood orange salad, or grate

over pumpkin and sage ravioli.

Squid Add roughly ground nibs to

a tempura batter for squid.

Meat Rub ground toasted nibs

onto steak before grilling; add to Italian

agrodolce sauce for duck or pork; mix

into a fruity, spicy lamb tagine.

Sweet bakes Add nibs to banana

bread, flapjack, or cookies.

Cheesecake Add nibs to the

biscuit base ingredients for a savoury

or sweet cheesecake.

Kitchen

creativity

One of the most complexly flavoured foods, cacao nibs are earthy, bitter, and fragrant,

but unlike chocolate they do not melt without grinding to a paste. They have a nut-

like crunchy texture and can be used whole, chopped, or ground to a coarse powder.

pair with sweet

spices to enhance

chocolate flavours:

vanilla is sweet,

unmistakeably creamy

rich and aromatic

mahleb contributes

bittersweet cherry and

almond aroma

mace brings sweet

musky and orangey

flavours (less so with

nutmeg)

pair with woody

spices that enhance

the roasted, nutty

flavours:

wattle adds

roasted-coffee-like

taste with powerful

smoke aroma

black pepper

lends a woody, slightly

bitter, warm pungency

sesame brings

harmonizing nutty

flavours after roasting

cumin adds an

earthy, smoky

woodiness and

introduces an aroma

of pinewood

pair with spices

that stand up to

bitterness while

enhancing fruity

and floral notes:

coriander amplifies

floral and enhances

fruit with lemon notes

chilli brings fruity

and green nuances,

adding a mouth-

warming dimension

bay brings a

penetrating, fresh,

slightly floral herbiness

ginger brings

pungent warmth,

sweet citrus, and

floral linalool

pair with spices

that bolster the

sweet honey aroma

of cacao:

liquorice carries

an intense sweetness,

bringing clove taste

and strong eucalyptus

cinnamon

contributes sweet

warming qualities

allspice provides a

sweet peppery warmth

sweet paprika

enhances sweetness,

introducing earthiness

PYRAZINES,

THEOBROMINE,

CAFFEINE

bitter | roasted nut |

earthy

ISOVALERALDEHYDE

(AND OTHER

ALDEHYDES)

chocolatey | fatty |

peach

ALCOHOLS, ESTERS

fruity | herby |

flowery

KETONES

sweet | honey |

floral

BLEND TO TRY

Use and adapt this classic blend

featuring cacao:

Mole mix p65

140°C

(275°F)

162-163_Cacao.indd 163 13/06/2018 16:24