The Science of Spice

191

CHILLI

Ch

Flavour Group | PUNGENT COMPOUNDS | Chilli

BLENDS TO TRY

Try these blends featuring chilli and

adapt them with blending science:

Harissa p33

Yaji p36

Timur ko chhop p41

Vindaloo paste p44

Gunpowder p45

Shichimi-togarashi p57

Chilli black bean sauce p61

Mole mix p65

BBQ rub p68

Arrabiata sauce p76

Don’t underestimate chilli heat:

add with caution! Less fat in a

dish will curb heat as capsaicin

dissolves in oil, though some

related capsaicinoids do

dissolve in water.

CONTROL THE HEAT

BLENDING SCIENCE

Capsaicin is responsible for the heat pungency that can numb the mouth to more subtle flavours.

The latter are best appreciated in milder and/or fresh chillies and are produced by plentiful fruity esters,

and less common floral undecanol, grassy aldehydes, and citrusy limonene. Drying and smoking chillies

creates new flavour compounds, notably earthy, toasty pyrazines and nutty, bread-like furfural.

FOOD PARTNERS

Tropical fruit Dust chilli powder over

sliced tropical fruit.

Tomatoes Sprinkle smoked chilli

flakes over chilled gazpacho.

White fish Blitz soaked, dried chillies

and add them to a cherry tomato sauce

for grilled or fried white fish.

Chicken, tofu Combine dried red

chilli and Sichuan pepper in a fragrant

chicken stir-fry, or substitute tofu.

Chocolate Mix small amounts of

ground chilli into dark chocolate

desserts, tarts, cookies, or ganache.

Pith

enhance the fruity

side of mild and

fresh chillies:

cinnamon adds

sweet, penetrating

fragrance and warmth

allspice brings

sweet pepperiness

cardamom has

penetrating mintiness

caraway adds

bittersweet, anise-like,

citrus flavours

create rounded,

complex heat with

other pungent

compounds:

mustard adds

sharp, penetrating

pungency and bitterness

black pepper adds

a woody, lingering heat

and citrus notes

grains of paradise

bring hints of tropical

fruit beneath a

peppery warmth

Sichuan pepper

offers woody, citrusy,

and floral notes, and

causes a tingling

sensation

draw out citrus and

floral sides of mild

and fresh chillies:

coriander offers

strong, floral citrus

ginger brings

sweet citrus notes and

refreshing pungency

lemongrass has

similar citral and slight

pepperiness

ajwain offers

strong, herbal,

thyme-like flavour

complement the

earthy, roasted

flavours of dried

and smoked

chillies:

cacao nibs add

toasted, nutty

flavours, with floral

and citrus notes

cumin adds slightly

bitter earthiness

sesame seeds

share furfural and bring

harmonizing nuttiness

when toasted

turmeric adds a

musky, earthy flavour

with hints of ginger

ESTERS

fruity | sweet |

waxy

UNDECANOL,

LIMONENE

citrus | floral |

herby

PYRAZINES,

FURFURAL

nutty | roasted |

earthy

Kitchen

creativity

Chillies appear in countless cuisines around the world, and are used as much for

their flavour as for their heat, particularly in Mexican cooking. Some powders are

actually spice blends; “chile” powder and cayenne pepper are generally pure.

CAPSAICIN

fiery | numbing |

pungent

Dried chillies have more

heat than their fresh

equivalent: capsaicin

concentration roughly

doubles after drying.

Remove the inner white

pith (or placenta) to reduce

heat. “Deseeding” is effective

only if the pith is removed in

the process.

=

Seed

190-193_Chilli.indd 191 13/07/2018 11:44