The Science of Spice

(Jacob Rumans) #1

Flavour Group | UNIQUE COMPOUNDS | Turmeric 205


BLENDS TO TRY


Use and adapt these recipes for
classic blends featuring turmeric:
Hawaij p29
Niter kibbeh p32
Malaysian fish curry paste p51
Bumbu p52

Acid effect
Acids, such as lemon
juice, help to retain the
yellow colour.

Alkaline effect
Alkaline substances,
such as baking soda,
turn it orangey-red.

Iron reaction
Toasting or frying in an
iron skillet will darken
the spice.

Photosensitivity
Exposure to light
destroys the pigment,
so store it in the dark.

RELEASE THE FLAVOUR


Frying in fat causes flavour compound
molecules to disperse and form new
compounds. This only happens above
130°C (266°F), so does not occur in
boiling water.

BLENDING SCIENCE


Turmeric’s dominant earthy notes are produced by the flavour compounds
turmerone and ar-turmerone (“ar-” for “aromatic”), which are found in few other
spices. The minor compounds provide more opportunities for effective pairing.
Focus on one compound for a particular taste effect, or mix and match several.

FOOD PARTNERS


White fish Stir together turmeric,
yoghurt, and crushed garlic, and then
spoon over fish fillets before grilling.

Lamb and pork Combine with
paprika, lightly crushed cumin, and oil
for a meat rub, and massage into the
skin before roasting.

Squash and cauliflower Mix a
teaspoonful with oil and honey, and toss
with the vegetables before roasting.

White chocolate Add a good pinch
to cupcake batter along with chunks of
white chocolate.

Pickles Include thin slices of fresh
rhizome in fish and vegetable pickles.

130°C


(266°F)


Cooking with curcumin

The incredible staining power of ground turmeric is due to a pigment called curcumin, but you
may be surprised to discover that its hue can vary according to how it is used and stored.

use more cineole
spices for floral and
menthol notes:
anise, star anise
easily overpower, so
use sparingly
nutmeg will also
help to develop the
musky flavours

add depth with
other earthy spices:
cumin gives a rich,
warming earthiness

paprika brings
toasted, smoky,
and sweet notes
from pyrazines
black cardamom
brings smokiness and
penetrating menthol
from shared cineole

enhance fresh notes
with more citral:
cardamom also
adds penetrating
camphorous accents
coriander brings
zesty fruit and floral
aromas, and can be
added generously

boost the heat with
more zingiberene
or spices with
different pungency:
ginger also adds
complexity due to
shared zingiberene

black pepper
adds pungency due
to piperine, which
complements the
pungency of turmeric’s
zingiberene

CINEOLE


penetrating |
eucalyptus

CITRAL


citrus | herbal |
eucalyptus

ZINGIBERENE


pungent | sharp |
spicy

Kitchen


creativity


Turmeric works well in complex blends, where its pungent earthiness acts as a
base to help to bind other flavours together. Add sparingly if it is to be used on
its own, so that the bitter notes do not overwhelm.

TURMERONE AND


AR-TURMERONE


earthy | musky |
woody

TURMERIC


Tu


204-205_Turmeric.indd 205 13/06/2018 16:25

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