The Science of Spice

22 World of Spice

Often overlooked in favour of the cuisines of its

better known neighbours, Turkey and Lebanon,

it’s a bitter irony that Syria’s vibrant food culture is

making a name for itself only as its people scatter

from conflict in the area. The country has plenty to

offer: a rich natural larder bursting with fresh herbs,

cherries, dates, pomegranates, and nuts, laced with

a fragrant and mild spice palette.

Lamb kofte

with baharat,

see p210.

SYRIA

Fruity | Warm | Sour

Baharat – simply

meaning “spices” –

is the blend that

defines the Middle

East, its smoky mix

varying from region

to region.

LOCAL SPICE BLEND

Za’atar

This nutty, earthy blend of dried herbs and

spices is a versatile seasoning for hummus,

labneh, cheeses, meats, and fish.

2 tbsp cumin seeds

1 tsp sea salt

2 tbsp sesame seeds

2 tbsp dried oregano

2 tbsp sumac

Dry-roast the cumin in a frying pan, over a low heat,

until fragrant, then grind with the salt. Dry-roast the

sesame seeds until golden and stir into the mixture

with the oregano and sumac.

SPICE

PALETTE

“

Star of the Syrian spice

rack is Aleppo pepper,

a mild form of chilli flakes

produced around the ancient

Silk Road town of Aleppo.

”

Signature

Aleppo pepper, sumac,

allspice, black pepper, garlic

The palette gets its mild,

salty heat from the Aleppo

pepper, a tang from its

native sumac, and a mellow

piquancy from allspice.

Supporting

Safflower, cumin, cinnamon,

cardamom, nigella, sesame

Syrians have a more

sensitive taste for spice than

the Turkish or Lebanese,

choosing the milder safflower

over saffron to flavour and

colour rice dishes.

Supplementary

Tamarind, nutmeg, caraway, anise

Tamarind paste adds a

sweet-sourness to the palette,

while nutmeg, caraway, and

anise are used to bring

richness and liquorice spice

to cakes and desserts.

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Alep

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