The Science of Spice

South Asia 43

Cooks in the river delta of West Bengal and

Bangladesh embrace complex spice blends, which

work especially well with fish and seafood. For

religious reasons, many Hindus in Kolkata don’t

cook with onions and garlic, preferring the distinctive

nature of nutty-tasting poppy seed paste, popped

mustard seeds, ginger, and the aromatic five-spice

mix of panch phoran. Bangladeshi Muslims favour more

strident seasonings in such dishes as Mughal-style

biryanis and beef curries infused with whole spices.

Masor tenga fish

curry featuring

panch phoran,

see p211.

SPICE

PALETTE

LOCAL SPICE BLEND

Panch phoran

This whole spice mix is

a Bengali and Bangladeshi

speciality, and is particularly

good for flavouring dhals

and vegetable dishes.

2 tsp cumin seeds

2 tsp brown mustard seeds

2 tsp fennel seeds

1 tsp nigella seeds

1 tsp fenugreek seeds

Simply mix together the whole

spices. To use, fry a teaspoonful in oil

or ghee at the start of cooking, or

temper a dish just before serving.

EAST INDIA AND

BANGLADESH

Pungent | Sweet-sour | Mustardy

Signature

Chilli, mustard, turmeric,

cumin, ginger, garlic

Although chillies get top

billing in hilly regions,

flavourings in the plains are

characterized by contrasting

spice combinations cooked

in mustard oil.

Supporting

Poppy, black cardamom, fennel

Taking the edge off the more

assertive signature spices is

a cast of “carrier” seasonings,

which provide depth of

flavour and richness to

classic dishes.

Supplementary

Coriander, fenugreek, nigella

Fried nigella seeds lend

a nutty and pickled flavour

to vegetable and meat

dishes, and their piquancy

is complemented and

balanced by bitter

fenugreek and citrusy

coriander seeds.

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