The Science of Spice

44 World of Spice

The use of spices in western India reflects varied

landscapes and cultures. The arid climate of Rajasthan

and parts of Gujarat differs from the tropical

atmosphere of Maharashtra and Goa, and the cooking

styles are equally distinct. Savoury dishes in Gujarat

are characterized by sweet-sour flavours underpinned

by jaggery and pungent spices such as fenugreek

seeds and dried red chillies. Royal Rajasthani dishes

are acclaimed for their richness and chilli-laden

masalas, while along the Konkan coastline, hot and

sour fish curries, balanced by creamy coconut masalas,

are emblematic. Goa is famed for accommodating

vinegary and garlicky Indo-Portuguese dishes.

LOCAL SPICE BLEND

Vindaloo paste

The Goans adopted and

adapted this fiery, sweet-sour

mix from the Portuguese.

11 ⁄ 2 tsp cumin seeds

15–20 dried Kashmiri chillies, whole

1 tsp black peppercorns

2 tsp black mustard seeds

1 tsp fenugreek seeds

6 cloves

1 tsp cardamom seeds

5cm (2in) piece of cassia

(^1) ⁄ 2 star anise
6 tbsp cider vinegar or palm vinegar
1 tsp fine salt
2 tsp jaggery or date palm sugar
Toast the spices in a frying pan
over a medium heat until fragrant,
then grind. Transfer to a bowl, add
the vinegar, salt, and jaggery, and
mix to a stiff paste.
Vindaloo
paste ready for
use in a pork
or chicken curry,
see p212.
Signature
Kokum, dried red chilli,
cumin, turmeric, mustard,
ginger, garlic
These spices form the
backbone of most cooking
in this region, although
garlic is shunned by
the Jain community
for religious reasons.
Supporting
Fenugreek, curry leaf,
black pepper
Dishes from this region
show restraint in their use
of fenugreek seeds and curry
leaves, but there’s no holding
back when peppercorns are
roasted and ground into
warming masalas.
Supplementary
Asafoetida, sesame
Sesame seeds are so
much more than a garnish:
they add richness and a
nutty character when
roasted and ground, and
are good vehicles for
sulphurous asafoetida.
SPICE
PALETTE
mu
sta
rd
WEST INDIA
Bitter | Sour | Sweet
cur
ry^
lea
f
dried^
red
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044-045_West_South.indd 44 04/06/2018 15:46