Ashes to ashes // Riga burned down on several occasions
— deliberately. hose living outside the city walls dwelled in
wooden houses and would set them on ire before retreating
within the walls upon the threat of invasion. he last burning
of Riga was in 1812, when several suburbs were torched in
anticipation of a French invasion. Napoleon, as it turned out,
had little interest in taking the city anyway
EAT
LIDO VERMANITIS: The Lido
mini-chain of self-service, canteen-style
restaurants is a Riga institution, usually
illed with cheesy country hut-style decor
and soundtracked by questionable sub-
oompah music. It’s not ine food, but it’s
hearty, cheap, varied and distinctive. The
Vermanitis and Dzirnavas branches are in
the Central District and there’s another in
the old town. lido.lv
ZVIEDRU VARTI: In a 16th-century
building next to the old town’s Swedish Gate,
this family-run labour of love is at its best
with the meaty winter warmers, such as pork
leg with stewed cabbage, or duck breast with
pear and red wine sauce. The interior is cosy
— come the evening it’s positively romantic
and low-lit — and attentive service is a point
of honour. zviedruvarti.lv
VINCENTS: There are some local
dishes here, including Baltic Sea lounder
and grilled venison with wild mushrooms,
but the aim is to be international standard
rather than just the top address in town. That
means Japanese wagyu beef, Faroe Islands
langoustines, Ibérico pork, tasting menus
and a hety wine list. restorans.lvLIKE A LOCAL
NATIONAL ROMANTICISM: Eisenstein’s
buildings are the lashiest examples of
art nouveau, and they’re almost a genre
to themselves. But far more of Riga’s art
nouveau treasure chest is muted. In the
centre, look out for the more subtle ‘national
romanticism’ buildings, which incorporate
earthy colours and forest-themed motifs.
CREATIVE QUARTERS: Locals don’t tend to
hang out in the old town, preferring instead
a series of former industrial sites that have
been turned into ‘creative quarters’ full of
start-up businesses, indie cafes, galleries and
bars. The Kalnciema Quarter, with its wooden
buildings and markets on the western side of
the Daugava, is the best example, although
the former Jewish ghetto behind the Central
Market is more easily accessible.
PICKLED FOOD: The Latvian approach to food
seems to be based on the assumption that
a 10-year winter is approaching. If they can
smoke it, or pickle it, they will. The Central
Market provides the most eye-poppingly
high scale illustration of this, but there’s
been a recent uptick of pride and conidence
in local cuisine that’s increasingly iltering
through to restaurant menus.BUY
RIGA CENTRAL MARKET: The ive giant
‘pavilions’ the largest market in Europe is
based around were originally designed to
be airship hangars. Now they constitute a
cornucopia of fresh food — including pig’s
heads, trotters and a variety of unusual
baked goods. The ‘Gastronomic Pavilion’ is
the most visitor-friendly, with food court-
esque specialist stalls and cheese and treats
merchants. rct.lv
HOBBYWOOL: Patterned woollen clothing
— particularly mittens — is traditionally big
in Latvia, although it’s more a rural thing.
Hobbywool, a sort of a knitting supplies
store, brings it to Riga’s old town, however.
In among the knitting kits are mittens, socks
and more, made from wool that’s been hand-
sheared on a family farm. hobbywool.com
ART NOUVEAU RIGA: Clearly milking its
position opposite the Art Nouveau Museum,
this very deliberate time warp of a shop sells
pretty much any souvenir knick-knack you
might consider — in the art nouveau style.
That means decorative tiles, books, jewellery,
plates, purses, glasses, the works. It could
have been tacky, but much of what’s on sale
is rather endearing. artnouveauriga.lv
RIGAMarch 2020 145RIGA