National Geographic Traveller UK 03.2020

When were in-light meals
irst served?
Sandwiches or fruit were the
options ofered 101 years ago for
the irst ever in-light meal, which
was served on a Handley Page
Transport London to Paris light.
Dining in the skies has changed
since 1919 and, although the
reputation of in-light meals
varies, things have improved. So
much so, that ater noting positive
conversations on social media
about their in-light meals, airline
AirAsia has successfully opened a
fast food restaurant — Santan.

Why can they taste so bad?
The human ability to taste is
signiicantly reduced at altitude
— studies reckon our perception
of saltiness and sweetness are
30% lower. Cabin conditions play
a part too — the pressurisation
and lack of humidity leads to
nasal passages drying up, so
everyone’s efectively eating with
a minor cold. Even noise plays a
part — in a loud cabin, biting into
crunchy food doesn’t provide the
same aural satisfaction.

Why all the sauce?
In-light meals tend to skew
towards curries, stews and

anything else slathered in sauce.

That’s due to the dehydration

factor, both for the food and the

people eating it. Reheat chicken

while inside a dry cabin, and

it’s going to come out devoid of

moisture and tenderness, unless

it’s covered in something wet.

It’s partly a lavouring thing,

too. When the taste buds and

olfactory system aren’t working

quite as well, being able to bung

extra seasoning in or ramp up

the salt can be the diference

between bleakly bland and

tasting pretty good.

Which foods don’t work?

There’s a reason bread rolls are

usually served straight out of the

oven — bread goes stale very

quickly in-light. You’re also much

more likely to get rice than chips,

as fried food is hard to stop from

going grimly soggy. Fattier cuts

of meat are usually used, too, as

they’re more moist and tender to

the dehydrated mouth.

Some wines don’t work as well,

either. Earthier, tannin-heavy

wines can taste like dirt in the air,

whereas more aromatic varietals

and fruitier, sweeter types like

Rieslings and Shirazes work much

better with the sky high palate.

Are meals cooked on board?

No — due to time, space and

safety. They’re designed and

made in oten vast factories

near the airport. Singapore

Airlines’ facility in Singapore

has around 1,200 chefs and 19

kitchens producing more than

80,000 items a day. It even has a

simulated cabin to replicate the

pressurisation for tasting when

experimenting with new recipes.

The aim is to keep things

as fresh as possible, so meals

are cooked and cooled on the

ground as close to departure

as possible, then wheeled on

board and heated up in the galley

ovens. Cabin crew then follow

instructions on how to serve the

various dishes.

What if I have special

dietary requirements?

Most airlines are very

accommodating. British Airways,

for example, ofers 14 diferent

special meals, including those

compliant with Hindu, Jain,

Jewish and Muslim religious

beliefs, plus low-calorie, gluten-

free, diabetic-friendly, low-fat,

low-salt and low-lactose options.

Not all are automatically carried

on board, so ask in advance. IMAGE: GETTY

IN-FLIGHT MEALS

MALAYSIA-BASED AIRLINE AIRASIA HAS OPENED A RESTAURANT IN

KUALA LUMPUR THAT SELLS ITS IN-FLIGHT MEALS. BUT WHY DOES FOOD

OFTEN TASTE SO DIFFERENT IN THE SKIES? WORDS: DAVID WHITLEY

FREQUENT FLYER

Our favourites from

the major airlines

EMIRATES ECONOMY

(LONG HAUL)

Paneer makhani served

with cumin rice with raisins

and cashew nuts or grilled

chicken with sundried

tomato pesto, mashed

potatoes and seasonal

vegetables.

BRITISH AIRWAYS ECONOMY

(LONG HAUL)

The Taste of Britain menu is

available for a £16 upgrade

fee and includes Loch Fyne

smoked salmon with creme

fraiche and caper berries;

slow-roasted Wiltshire pork

belly with celeriac mash

and sauteed broccolini; and

summer berry pudding with

Cornish clotted cream.

VIRGIN ATLANTIC ECONOMY

(LONG HAUL)

Chicken teriyaki with jasmine

rice and Japanese inspired

mixed vegetables or beef

chilli melt with maple syrup

glazed potato wedges.

UNITED AIRLINES ECONOMY

(LONG HAUL)

Mozzarella and roasted red

pepper agnolotti in vodka

sauce, served with kale,

ire-roasted peppers, a soft

baguette and apple wheat

berry grain salad.

DELICIOUS

DISHES?

TRAVEL GEEKS

156 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel