12 34567ON THE TRAIL
��uguay
A scenic road trip along Uruguay’s pretty coastline ofers up
a wealth of experiences, from wine-tasting to beachside yoga
Words: Angela Locatelli6 CABO POLONIO
Located in a national park, this
ishing village is only accessible
via four-wheel-drive vehicle.
With no paved streets, running
water or electricity, visiting here
is like a step back in time. Get
ready to take it slow: ditch the
technology, cook by candlelight
and keep an eye out for the
sea lions that visit the shores.4 JOSÉ IGNACIO
Welcome to Uruguay’s trendiest
beach resort, where ishermen’s
huts sit beside exclusive cottages.
Despite a lively social scene,
this former pirates’ hideaway
maintains a relaxed atmosphere;
unwind with a spot of yoga at
The Shack, take a walk to the
lighthouse or dine at the famous
Parador La Huella restaurant.3 PUNTA DEL ESTE
A resort for the rich and famous,
this is Uruguay’s answer to
Miami, complete with swish
hotels, designer boutiques,
golf courses and a sparkling
yacht marina. Pay a visit to the
whimsically designed Casapueblo
Museum-Studio to learn more
about the life and work of artist
Carlos Páez Vilaró, then spend
an aternoon people-watching on
one of the town’s beaches — and
perhaps admiring the giant Hand
in the Sand sculpture at Playa
Brava. Come evening, head to the
waterfront Moby Dick pub for live
music or dance the night away at
one of the city’s glitzy clubs.1 CARMELO
This rustic town sits in the
heart of Uruguay’s wine region.
Visit the Bodega Familia Irurtia
winery, which doubles as a
museum, or Narbona Wine
Lodge, where wine-lovers can
spend the night in one of ive
luxury suites. Be sure to sample
tannat — a punchy red made with
the country’s signature grape.5 LA PALOMA
Nature-lovers should stop of
at this protected ecological
reserve for some of the region’s
best wildlife-watching. Running
from the verdant inland hills to
the coast, La Paloma is a haven
for birdwatchers: 200-plus bird
species call this park home,
including storks, black-necked
swans and Chilean lamingos.2 MONTEVIDEO
Uruguay’s capital is a must-see
on any trip along the coast. It’s
home to museums, sweeping
beaches and quaint squares,
as well as the converted 19th-
century Mercado del Puerto
market. It’s also a bustling
gastronomic centre, with
numerous restaurants serving
traditional Uruguayan fare.7 PUNTA DEL DIABLO
It’s all about the beach at this laid-
back spot. Reliable waves mean
the hippy village is a haven for
surfers, while the vast stretches of
sand are perfect for horse-riding.
As darkness falls, make a beeline
for the Paseo de los Artesanos
promenade, where artisans
sell everything from wooden
ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE sculptures to blown glass.
March 2020 25SMART TRAVELLER