National Geographic Traveller UK 03.2020

MORNING

Start the day with a dose of culture

at the city’s most impressive

cultural institution. The Kode is

a collection of four galleries and

three composers’ homes spread

across Bergen. With over 50,000

items arranged across the sites, it’s

easy to ind your niche. The four

Kode galleries — located in front

of the Lille Lungegårdsvannet lake

in the city’s centre — conveniently

divide up the city’s various

artistic ages. Spend plenty of time

browsing them all, although you

may want to linger a little longer in

Kode 3, which houses the largest

collection of Edvard Munch

paintings outside of Oslo, as well

as an impressive sketch of his

iconic The Scream.

AFTERNOON

Fuel up with lunch at the city’s

300-year-old ish market.

Whether you pick up a crab

baguette at the outdoor stalls

lining the harbour (open May to

June) or take a seat in the indoor

area (where fresh seafood is

prepared at sleek counters), you’ll

be sure to get a taste of the rich

culture of seafood ingrained here.

Next, board a boat (14 weekly

3h50m sailings from Bergen) and

head of to explore the coastline

and the city’s popular archipelago.

Your destination is Balestrand,

located in Sognejord, Norway’s

longest and deepest jord, which

extends more than 120 miles

inland to meet the foothills of the

Jotunheimen Mountains.

EVENING

Arriving by boat into Balestrand

feels like an adventure plucked

straight from the pages of a

Norwegian fairytale. Pitch up at

Kviknes Hotel, a grand Victorian

timber building, then sink into

a plush armchair and stare out

at the jord beyond. For dinner,

head to The Cider House (open

June to August), home to the

world’s northernmost cidery and

a restaurant. Orchard tours and

tastings are ofered, alongside

traditional food and a warm

welcome from owners, the

Eitungjerde Høyvik family.

One of them, Åge, hosts

occasional Gregorian chant

concerts in the deepest, most

echoey cider cellar.

DAY TWO MUSEUMS, MARKETS & CIDER

TOP 5

Mountain

adventures

ZIP-LINE

Test your head for heights

on Norway’s fastest zip-line.

Starting outside the sole

restaurant on the highest

of Bergen’s mountains,

Mount Ulriken, this zip-line

whisks thrill-seekers nearly

1,000ft through a vertiginous

landscape, providing epic

views high above the urban

centre. ulriken643.no

BIKE

During the summer, rent

a bike and enjoy the cycle

tracks atop Mount Fløyen

— it’s a chance to see the city

in a whole new light. Rugged

hillside paths weave past

lakes and through forests.

This is prime mountain biking

terrain — there are steep

climbs and challenging

turns. bergenbysykkel.no

bimbimbikes.com

PADDLE

Various companies take

travellers out on the

waterways. The seas and

rivers are inviting, but make

sure to check out the free

— yes, free — canoeing every

day during summer on Lake

Skomakerdiket, situated on

Mount Fløyen. loyen.no

HIKE

You’ll soon notice that

Mount Fløyen and Mount

Ulriken are mentioned a lot

in Bergen. They’re the two

most prominent of the seven

surrounding mountains,

and the basis for many

adventurous pursuits beyond

the city limits. Take in both

on the popular ive-hour

Vidden Trail.

CAMP

There’s no reason why a

hotel has to provide your

accommodation on a

summer visit. Camping is

allowed for up to two days at

a time in the city’s mountains

— pitch up and ind your

peace. And for those

wanting to get even closer to

nature, remember that wild

swimming is allowed in any

body of water that’s not a

source of drinking water.

Cyclists beside

Hardangerfjord

IMAGE: RAPHA/FJORDNORWAY.COM

March 2020 47

WEEKENDER