Whisky - UK (2020-05)

(Antfer) #1
THOUGHTS FROM
MAGGIE KIMBERL

Issue 167 | Whisky Magazine 13


I


’ve been studying whisky cocktails
for years, and I do mean studying. A

few years back I did a seven-month
long study of the Manhattan cocktail

with a colleague, in which we broke the
cocktail down into its various parts to

see how they all worked together. It was
an enlightening experience. Not only

did I learn what goes into my favourite
Manhattan cocktail, but I also learned

how each of the ingredients interact
with each other. Understanding how

all the ingredients go together goes a
long way towards understanding how

whisky cocktails work, and what went
wrong when they don’t.

Whisky can have some pretty strong
opinions. One might be loud and spicy,

while another might be delicate and
sweet. Whenever I see a recipe that

•’‡…‹β‹‡•Ǯ™Š‹•›ǯ›„”ƒ‹‰‘‡•‹–‘
overdrive. My immediate response is

to analyse the other ingredients in the
recipe and extrapolate based on my

knowledge of certain whiskies which
one might work well in the recipe.

The people who write recipes
don’t always know what’s going to

be available to the reader, so they
keep it general in order to make the

recipe more widely accessible. To the
untrained eye, however, a classic 2-1-

Manhattan recipe can turn into an
unexpected disaster. The whisky you

choose to pair with a certain vermouth
can be exquisite or it can be a disaster.

The bitters are your spice rack, and
depending on which one you choose

you can overseason or underseason
your cocktail.

The professionals making drinks


in high end whisky bars already have
ƒ‡…›…Ž‘’ƒ‡†‹ƒ‘ˆβŽƒ˜‘—”•‹–Š‡‹”

knowledge base, so they can take a call
for a certain brand of whisky and know

which vermouth and which bitters are
going to play best.

For old cocktail recipes, a lot has
„‡‡Ž‘•––‘Š‹•–‘”›ǤǮ™‹‡‰Žƒ••ǯ‹•ƒ

measurement that translates to two
ounces, but if you aren’t a seasoned

bartender you may not realise that
when you read a recipe from the 1800s,

which could lead to some strong and


unbalanced cocktails.


Bartenders use the knowledge they
have gained on the job to give you the

best experience possible, but they also
use this knowledge to build and create

recipes, old and new, based on recipes
or completely original.

Starting with a whisky base is tricky
because you have to tailor the other

ingredients. While spirits like vodka
ƒ†”—†‘Šƒ˜‡˜ƒ”‹ƒ–‹‘•‹βŽƒ˜‘—”

from brand to brand, swapping one out
for the other is unlikely to drastically

ƒŽ–‡”–Š‡⋐ƒŽ’”‘†—…–ǤŠ‹•›ǡ‘–Š‡
other hand, varies by style, producer,

bottling proof, mash bill, and more. If
you use Japanese whisky in place of

Bourbon or rye whiskey in place of
Scotch you might be in for a surprise.

A bartender’s job is to make sure


that you enjoy your drink, so don’t
be offended if you ask for something

•’‡…‹β‹…ƒ†–Š‡›“—‡•–‹‘›‘—–‘
ensure you are going to be getting what

you want. They are doing the maths in
their head as you order to ensure the

end product is enjoyable.
When you have a bartender you

trust, you can ask them to make
something a little different based on

your tastes. Bartending is like applied
chemistry class, and yes, there’s also

•‘‡–‹‡•β‹”‡Ǥ
There’s an art to remembering what

each ingredient tastes like and also to
understanding what you are tasting

when you try something new. Building
drinks from scratch was something

–Šƒ–™ƒ•Ž‘•–‹–Š‡Ǯ…‘˜‡‹‡…‡‡”ƒǡǯ
but I’m glad it made such a strong and

lasting comeback. I’m happy to wait
ten minutes for an exceptional cocktail.

What’s the hurry, anyway?
In order to appreciate the process,

try making your own whisky cocktails
at home. Experiment with different

products in different combinations and
notice the differences.

The combinations are of course
endless, but you will eventually

discover you have preferences.
Once you have a good feel for the

complexity of whisky drinks, be
sure to visit your local whisky bar

and talk to the bartender. Take some
time to order a really good drink and

watch it being made. It really adds to
your appreciation of the process, to

understanding of the hard work and
thoughtfulness that goes into a really

great whisky cocktail.


Take some time to


order a really good


drink and watch it


being made


IN PR AISE OF WHISKY COCKTAILS


The bartender’s calling is one to be admired


013 - MaggieColumn-WM 167 .indd 13 09 / 04 / 2020 09 : 17

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