@penandspoonThisis aneditedextractfromCocoa:
AnExplorationofChocolate,WithRecipesby
Sue Quinn (Hardie Grant Books, $39.99)CHOCOLATE.NOOTHERfoodhasthesamebeguiling,
deliciouspullonoursenses.Almostmagically,andaloneamong
thethingsweeat,chocolatemeltsataroundbodytemperature,
floodingourmouthwithvoluptuoussweetness,anarrayof
flavoursanda whisperofbitternessassoonasweplaceit on
ourtongue.Itschemistrylightsupthepleasurecentresin our
brain,energisesusandsatesour hunger. But chocolate is more
thanjustanedibledelight.
Chocolateis nostalgia.A simplebiteintoa favouritebarcan
carryusbacktoourfirstchildhoodtreat,thatsweetrewardfor
goodbehaviour,orthecomfortingsnackwhenweweresad.
Eachbiteofchocolateis imbuedin historyandflavoured
withitsepicjourneyovermillennia,fromtherainforestsofthe
Amazon,wheretheancientsfirstdiscoveredhowtoprepare
bittercacaoseeds,tothefreshly minted bars stacked on
supermarket shelves today.CHOCOLATE,MARMALADEAND
GINGERSTEAMED PUDDING
SERVES6-8
Chocolateandmarmaladearea
magnificentmatchinthistraditional
steamedpudding,mademoredelicious
withtheadditionofnuggetsofpreserved
ginger.Thespongeitselfis lovelyand
moist,andinvestedwitha generous
marmaladecrown.Butasit doesn’thave
riversofsauce,it’sbestservedwitha jug
ofcustard– ideallyspiked with rum or
whisky – alongside.
175gunsaltedbutter,softened,
plusextratogrease
(^1) / 2 cup(170g)marmalade
50gcrystallisedginger, plus 2tbs ginger
syrup(if needed)
11 / 4 cup(175g)plainflour
45gcocoapowder
2 tspbakingpowder
175gcastersugar
3 largeeggs,lightlybeaten
(^1) / 3 cup(80ml)milk
Custard or ice cream, to serve
Generouslygreasea 1.2Lpudding
basinwithbutterandlinethebasewith
a circleofbakingpaper. Butter a large
squareoffoil.
Spoonthemarmaladeintothebase of
thepuddingbasinandsetaside.
Using a fork or balloon whisk, whisk the
flour,cocoa,bakingpowder and a pinch of
salttogetherin a bowl.
Ina mixingbowlorthebowlofa stand
mixerwiththepaddleattachment,beat
thebutterandsugartogetheruntilpale
andfluffy.Graduallybeatin theeggs,
addinga littleoftheflourmixtureif it starts
tocurdle.Stirin theflourmixtureand
enoughofthemilktoforma softdropping
consistency.Foldin thechoppedginger.
Spoonmixtureintothebasinand
smooththetop.Make2 pleatsinthe
centreofpreparedfoil,placebuttered-
sidedownandsecurewithstringaround
therim.Placeanupturnedsaucerina
largepanandplacebasinontop.Pourin
enoughboilingwatertocomeone-
quarterwayupthesideofthebasin.
Coverwitha lidandsimmerfor1 hour 45
minutes,toppingup with more boiling
waterif needed.
Carefullyremovethebasinfromthepan,
runa knifearoundthesidestoloosenand
invertontoa plate. Serve with custard or
ice cream.
SALTEDHONEY,PEARAND
CHOCOLATE TARTE TATIN
SERVES4-6
Thisis oneofmyveryfavouritedesserts
in thisbook,andnotjustbecauseI’m
a suckerfortarteTatin.Saltycaramel,
roastedpear,crisppastryandwalnuts
(sadly neglected since pistachios muscled
intonuttopspot)fuseintosomething
completelydelicious.I lovethewaythe
chocolatesurreptitiouslyenrichesthe
caramel, without shouting about it.
1 sheetready-rolledpuffpastry
Plainflour,todust(optional)
6 smallpears(about100geach),peeled,
halvedlengthwise, core removed
Juiceof1 lemon
70gunsaltedbutter,chopped
70gcastersugar
70grunnyhoney
50gwalnuts,chopped
50gdarkchocolate (60% cocoa solids),
chopped
Whipped cream, to serve
Preheattheovento180°C.Greasea large
oventrayandlinewithbakingpaper.
Cuta 23cmroundfromthepastry,prick
alloverwitha fork, place on prepared tray
andchill.
Placepearsin a bowlwiththe lemon
juicetopreventbrowning.
Meltthebutterina 20cmovenproof
frypan.Sprinkleoverthesugarandcook
for2 minutesoruntilit beginstodissolve,
thenstirinthehoneyand½ tspsalt
flakes.Arrangeallbutoneofthepears,
cut-sideup,inthepanwiththenarrowest
endpointingtothecentre–youwant
themtofitsnuglyastheywillshrink
slightly during cooking. If there is space
EXTR ACT.
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