BBC Good Food - 04.2020

Photographs ISTOCK

GETTY IMAGES,

FORFORKSAKESOCIAL, ED SOWERBY,

SIMON DEWHURST PHOTOGRAPHY, LISA ERICO

138 bbcgoodfood.com APRIL 2020

From modern, big-ticket British restaurants to

global vegan street food, Leeds’ vibrant culinary

scene has all bases covered. Here’s where to take

a bite out of West Yorkshire’s largest city

wordsTONY NAYLOR

Leeds

insider

Home

Hidden above a shopping precinct, this handsome

dining room – a Scandi-style neo-Georgian space –

is where chef-owners Liz Cottam and Mark Owens

deliver rotating tasting menus of seasonal, modern

food. Underpinned by Yorkshire’s fine produce, dishes

like roast garlic rabbit dumplings, a caviar-topped ri

on omelette Arnold Bennett, or pan-roasted halibut

with Jerusalem artichoke & creamed fish stock

reduction are elegant crowd-pleasers. Chef Adam

Rasburn oversees daily services, as Owens and

Cottam are also busy opening venues in Kirkgate

Market, including gastropub The Owl (theowlleeds.

co.uk). Tasting menus from £55. homeleeds.co.uk SO CD

Assembly

Underground

Leeds loves street food, and this

subterranean hub sates all smashed

burger and Neapolitan pizza needs.

Its communal tables are packed with

people enjoying wraps from local

heroes Falafel Guys and Punjabi dishes

from masala dosa dons Jah Jyot, among

others. West Yorkshire brewery

Vocation & Co. provides the drinks

across a gin bar and 50 (yes, 50!) taps

of beer and cider. Dishes from £5.

assemblyunderground.com CD CE KF

North Star Coee Shop

& General Store

This coee roastery/café on Leeds Dock serves

a neat flat white, and a full menu that features

everything from Yorkshire sausage hash to seasonal

grain bowls, plus bakes from Sarah Lemanski and

Hannah Mather’s neighbouring Nova Bakehouse

(novabakehouse.com). This flour powerhouse makes

a mega four-cheese rye scone, and possibly the most

decadent salted caramel brownie you’ll ever taste.

Yo u ’ l l a l s o fi n d s e l e c t p r o d u c t s f o r s a l e a r o u n d N o r t h

Star’s chic skimmed-concrete walls, from ceramics

to free-range eggs. Bakery items from £2, dishes

from around £5. northstarroast.com CE CD KF

Owt

The premise behind Owt is as neat and simple

as the tiny Kirkgate Market café unit that holds

it. Owners James Simpson and Esther Miglio

create fresh menus weekly, taking inspiration

from the market’s produce; aordable, lovingly

assembled dishes, all backed up by terrific

baking, vegan sausage rolls and surprisingly

good complimentary filter coee. Dishes might

range from smoked haddock, hash browns,

soft-boiled egg & greens for breakfast to a

knock-out bolognese with perfectly al dente

linguine. A real find, this one. Lunch mains

from £6. owtleeds.com CE CD

Home

delivers

rotating

tasting

menus of

seasonal,

modern

food

The arepa con

queso at Kanassa