BBC Good Food - 04.2020

eat like a local

APRIL 2020 bbcgoodfood.com 139

BEST FOR

CDcasual dining

CEcheap eats

KFkid-friendly

SOspecial

occasion

Kanassa

Located in Kirkgate Market’s Market Kitchen, this

vegetarian and vegan homage to Colombian street

food – think smoked aubergine empanadas and arepa

corn cakes on homemade chipotle-spiced black beans

• has Leeds’ foodies transfixed. Sisters Anna and
  Beth Shindler’s colourful food is alive with flavour.
  From £4.95.facebook.com/kanassakitchen CE CD KF

Eat Your Greens

A collab between Outlaws Yacht Club bar and Leeds’

foremost flexitarian spot, Grub & Grog, this grocer-

cum-casual diner is almost entirely meat-free (think

organic, seasonal produce and big natural flavours).

The brunch menu includes kimchi hash, baked eggs

in creamed celeriac and stout rarebit, and is a doozy.

Plates from £6.eatyourgreensleeds.co.uk CD

Wa t e r L a n e B o a t h o u s e

In summer, locals make a beeline for this canal-side

spot, a sister operation to hip food-savvy venues

Headrow House (headrowhouse.com) and Belgrave

Music Ha ll (belgravemusichall.com). Beyond al fresco

boozing, its menu of sourdough pizzas, burgers and

salads constitutes some of the city’s best ad hoc,

pub-style grub. Order the panko-crumbed fish finger

butty, a side of chef Ben Dav y ’s legendary skin-on

chips and a pint of something good from Northern

Monk. It’s a great way to fritter away an hour. Meals

from £5.95.waterlaneboathouse.com CD

Matt Healy x The Foundry
Tucked into the historic workshops and warehouses
around Water Lane – now colonised by Leeds’ creative
industries – Matt Healy’s restaurant is a swanky,
grown-up hideaway serving a pick ‘n’ mix menu
of snacks, cheeses, charcuterie and small-to-large
plates of increasing chey refinement. From the
convincingly rugged pork terrine (note: Healy
once worked at London’s Terroirs) to an ornate plate
of cured mackerel, apple, celeriac & blackberry gel,
Healy ’s cooking delivers. Mains from £16.50.
mhfoundry.co.ukCD

Sarto
The views of Leeds City bus station cannot rival Rome
or Milan, but in Sarto, Laynes Espresso’s Dave Olejnik
has created a fresh pasta joint with creative, largely
meat-free dishes that would cut a dash anywhere.
Sarto’s communal dining room – an ultra-minimal,
retro-modern gem – is as sharp as the cooking, with
a menu serving renowned arancini and plates of kale
& almond pesto fettucine with pickled cauliflower.
Portions are sensible and prices keen. Pastas from £7.
sartopasta.ukCD CE KF

Little Bao Boy at
Leeds City Tap
Most folk will hit North Brewing’s Leeds City Tap for
its 24 lines of IPAs, impy stouts and triple-fruited gose
rarities. But from Little Bao Boy’s hatch-kitchen, you
can also eat next-level bao, noodle soups and gyoza.
Owner James Ooi’s buns are impressively light, and
his inventive fillings (fried chicken thighs marinated
in gochujang buttermilk, for instance), bristle with big
flavours. His shredded beef brisket is a deep dive into
the mutually reinforcing qualities of heat and spice.
Buns from £4. northbrewing.com CD CE

Shop, sip and
snack at Eat
Your Greens

X

North Star’s
muins come
courtesy
of Nova
Bakehouse

Tony Naylor

writes for

Restaurant

magazine and

The Guardian.

@naylor_tony

Jah Jyot’s

Punjabi dishes

at Assembly

Underground

X

For more

places to eat

in Leeds, visit

bbcgoodfood.

com

Water Lane

Boathouse’s top

pub-style dishes

X

Sample Matt

Healy’s reined

menu at The

Foundry