76
ESSAY
WHAT TO INVEST IN NOW
SEE YOU TOMORROW, at
Nordstrom’s new New York
flagship, offers discounts on
covetable pieces like Balen-
ciaga sneakers and colorful
mohair Ganni sweaters—but
this is no average sale section.
In a novel move for a high-
end department store, every-
thing in the shop-in-shop is
pre-owned. “More than half
of Americans are now involved
in some form of re-commerce,
whether that’s resale, consign-
ment, or clothing rental ser-
vices,” says Olivia Kim, vice
president of creative projects
at Nordstrom, on why the
legacy retailer decided to opt
for resale. Unlike the tradi-
tional linear model of shop,
wear, and dispose, the circular
fashion economy has a positive
environmental impact by
keeping luxe goods in play, which, as Kim sees it, is good
for the future of the business: “Re-commerce validates
buying luxury because it shows that an item, even after
it’s been worn, holds its value.”
So what should you invest in for spring? Resale com-
pany Rebag recently launched Clair (Comprehensive
Luxury Appraisal Index for Resale), a Kelley Blue Book
of sorts for the secondary handbag market. Clair ranks
luxury brands on a scale from “high risk” to “safe bet”
(Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Louis Vuitton are top per-
formers, ranging from 55 to 75 percent resale value on
average), and also tells you what Rebag is willing to pay
for 10 , 000 styles. “If you’re looking to buy firsthand, you
might want to first check Clair to see the bag’s potential
resale value,” says Rebag chief marketing officer ElizabethLayne, citing the Dior Book
Tote, Fendi Baguette, and
Gucci 1955 Horsebit as some
of the current hits. “Classic
silhouettes are a better bet
than something more trendy,”
she says. “As a rule of thumb,
opt for a neutral color even if
it’s a newer style.”
As for ready-to-wear, luxury
consignment giant the Real-
Real says that across its chan-
nels, demand for blazers is up
by 123 percent and for trousers
by 145 percent. What to buy
now? “Riccardo Tisci’s Bur-
berry tailoring,” says Sasha
Skoda, head of women’s for
the RealReal. “His skirt suits,
cinched-waist blazers, and
pleated trousers are exquisite,
and we’re seeing strong demand
among our customers.”
In January, the RealReal
published a report on the millions of items sold on its
site during the past decade. One of its most interesting
insights is that demand for sustainable brands grew 3. 6
times over the past two years. Editor favorite Nanushka
showed a 1 , 090 percent spike on the site last year (the
brand’s vegan leather pieces are among Skoda’s top picks
for spring), and Stella McCartney has held its place as
the best-selling sustainable brand. Another good choice,
according to Skoda, is a Prada nylon bag, such as those
from the new Re-Nylon series, reboots of the brand’s
classic ’ 90 s styles now made from recycled textile fibers
and ocean plastic. Resale value for all Prada nylon bags,
including the vintage originals, is up 20 percent year
over year, suggesting that when it comes to building your
fashion portfolio, it can pay to play the long game. ■In the era of luxury resale, it’s never been easier to build a diversified
fashion portfolio. By Alison S. Cohn“Re-commerce validates buying luxury,”
says Nordstrom’s Olivia Kim,
“because it shows that an item, even after
it’s been worn, holds its value.”JENNIFER LIVINGSTON. FASHION EDITOR: JOANNA HILLMAN. HAIR: NICOLAS ELDIN FOR PHILIP KINGSLEY; MAKEUP: MARYGENE FOR TOM FORD; MANICURE: SHIRLEY CHENG FOR ZOYA