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GH
BEAUTY
LAB30 GH APRIL 2020
Up to 40% of women suffer
from adult acne, and it’s
common, especially in the 30s
and 40s, to experience blem-
ishes and lines simultaneously.
That’s because the combina-
tion of hormones and lingering
excess oil production can
cause flare-ups just as signs
of aging start to appear.
The good news is that many
of the best science-backed
treatments can help with both.
by PIA VELASCO AND APRIL FRANZINODOUBLE
TROUBLE:
Wrinkles +
Breakouts
Blame stress and hormones.
“Hormonal acne tends to come and go,
especially during the time around your
period and when you’re under stress,”
explains Dendy Engelman, M.D., a derma-
tologist in New York City. “Hormones can
trigger oil production to increase and acne
to flare up,” she says, and stress raises
levels of the hormone cortisol, which can
worsen breakouts. In teenagers, hormonal
acne typically appears on the forehead, but
in adults it’s more commonly found along
the jawline and on the cheeks.What?! Pollution damages skin? “Nano-
particles of pollution can be up to 20 times
smaller than pores, allowing them to easily
penetrate skin’s surface,” Dr. Engelman says.
“The harmful effects are directly correlated
to clogged pores and inflammation.” Apply-
ing skincare such as serums, moisturizers
and sunscreen each morning can help form
a protective barrier against pollution.Uh-oh. It’s your beauty products.
Applying skincare and makeup that’s too
heavy for your skin can play a part in creating
blemishes. “Moisturizers, sunscreen and
makeup that are thick and oily may clog
pores, resulting in acne,” says Tess
Mauricio, M.D., a dermatologist in Beverly
Hills and San Diego. Opt for productslabeled noncomedogenic (not likely to
clog pores) and/or non-acnegenic (not likely
to cause acne), and clean your makeup
brushes at least once a week to prevent
the spread of acne-causing bacteria. “When
applying hairspray and other hair products,
shield or avoid your face, as these can
bring on acne if they come in contact with
facial skin,” explains Valerie Harvey, M.D.,
a dermatologist in Newport News, VA.It is what you eat...and drink. “Some
research shows that foods with a high gly-
cemic index [refined carbohydrates], which
make blood sugar spike, can trigger hor-
mones to help your body absorb the sugar,”
contributing to breakouts, Dr. Engelman
says. “Dairy has been implicated in causing
or exacerbating acne too,” possibly because
of hormones it can activate.Halt these habits. Not taking off makeup
and cleansing skin; frequently touching or
picking at your face; and sleeping on dirty
pillowcases can make you more blemish-
prone, as these can cause impurities to build
up, clogging pores, and prompt acne bacteria
to proliferate. Wash your face morning
and night and your pillowcases weekly.See page 32 for the best adult acne
treatments that also address skin aging.FIRST THINGS FIRSTWHAT CAUSES
ADULT ACNE?
“Breakouts are the result of a combo
of bacteria (called C. acnes), oil
produced in skin’s glands, inflam-
mation and clogged pores,” says
Shari Marchbein, M.D., a clinical
assistant professor of dermatology
at NYU Langone School of Medi-
cine. Many factors can contribute to
their formation, including genetics
and lifestyle habits. Read on for the
most common culprits.