46 The long read
THE WEEK4April 2020
Asthemillennium
dawned,thePacific
islandersofKiribati
becamethefirstpeople
onEarthtoringinthe
year 2 00 0.Ontheother
sideoftheplanet,final
preparationswereunder
wayfortheopening
ceremonyofthe
MillenniumDome.
Thiswasthenightwhen
10 ,0 00 speciallyinvited
guestswouldfinallysee
whatwasinsidethebig
whitetentinsoutheast
Londonthathadbeenthe
subjectof suchscrutiny
forthe previousfour
years.Ithadtobe perfect.
By 7pminGreenwich,it
wasapparenttherewasa
problem.Alogistical cock-upmeanthundreds ofguestshadnot
received theirticketsthroughthepost. Ticketlessguestshadbeen
instructedtopickthemuponNewYear’sEve atStratford
station,before hoppingonthenewlycompletedJubileelinetothe
Domeforthe festivities.But onthe night, body scannersinstalled
bypoliceatStratfordweren’tworkingand,before long, several
hundredpeople werestuckinthe station. Whentheprime
minister,TonyBlair,arrived twohourslater,angryinvitees,
includingmanynewspapereditors, werestillno closerto
boardingatrain toGreenwich.
There wasmoretroubleto come.
Justbefore 10pm,JenniePage,
theDome’sCEO,heardthat
policehad receivedacalltelling
themtherewasabomb inthe
BlackwallTunnel,whichranbeneaththe Dome. The PMhad
beeninformed,as hadthe Queen,who wasin attendanceto
receiveaspecial ly commissioned honour. In theminutes that
followed, an ashen-faced Blair, as well as thepolice andPage, had
to decidewhether tocancel theUK’s mill enniumcelebration, the
culmination of many years’work and£750mofinvestment.They
carried on.Thecallturned out to beahoax, andthe stranded
guestsatStratford eventually madeit for thecountdown,despite
missing thefestivities beforehand. After fouryears of politicians
andpress forecasting the project’sfailure,by thetimemidnight
struck,it seemedthe people behind theDomehad pulledit off.
Theheadlines toldadifferentstory. “The BlackHoleof Stratford
East”read one. “The £758mdisaster zone”said another.Michael
Heseltine, whosat ontheMillennium Commission, which had
broughtthe Dome to life,blamesthe standstillatStratford. “It
was aPRdisaste r,” he recalled.“Alot of thosewho didn’t get
thereon time were theverypeople whoweregoing to report
the event.” Butfor the thousands involvedin putting on the
Millennium Experience,fromgovernment ministers to service
staff, theworstwasyet to come. For thedurationofthe year that
the Dome was open,itwas perceived asacatastrophe.Richard
Rogers,one ofthearchitects,said in2015 that it“couldn’t have
hadaworsereception”.
Twentyyearslater,itis
stillabywordforNew
Labourhubris.But
lookingback,itisclear
theprevailingnarrative
thattheDomewasa
totalfailureisnotthe
fullstory.
Whenwemetrecently,
Pagespokeofhertime
ontheDomewithdignity.
“Therearealotofthings
Iwillnottalkabout,”
shesaid.In 1995 ,she
becameheadofthe
Millennium Commission,
responsible for deciding
on aonce-in-a-lifetime
exhibitiontomarkthe
new millennium.
InFebruary 1996,
Greenwichwas chosenasthesite,butit wouldbeyearsbeforeit
wasdecidedwhat form theexhibitionitself wouldtake. Atthat
point, thecommission’smosturgenttask was comingupwiththe
structureto houseit.
MikeDavies,who becametheDome’slead architect,knew that
work would needtostartassoonaspossible–fouryears isnot
longforbigprojects.One thingwasclear: what ever else they
did, thesitewasgoingtoneedshelter.“InMarch,wewere onthe
site,anditwasminusfour,” he
toldme.Standingthere inthe
bitterwind,he had his eureka
moment:“Let’sdoamega
cover.”Davies,whoalways
dresses headtotoe inred,is
stillclearlyinfatuatedwiththe
Dome’sdesign.Fortwohours,hetold mehowitembod iedthe
conceptof time.“Twelvemonthsoftheyear,so 12masts, 365
metres in diameter, andwith 24 scallops,like 24 hoursin aday,”
he enthused.The concept fittedthe bill, andwas cheap at £42m.
Over Christmas 1996, Page andher teamsettledonabudgetfor
the wholeMillenniumExperience:£750m, piecedtogetherfrom
sponsorship, National Lottery money andticket revenuefrom
12 million visitors. ButLabour’s landslidevictor yatthe May
1997 election, ending 18years of Toryrule, raisedconcerns the
project mightbeaxed.AsPage’s teamput their planto th enew
Government, theyemphasisedits New Labour-friendly aims.
The Domewould,amongother thin gs, “enhance theworld’s
viewof th eNation”. Despite misgivingsaboutthe cost,scaleand
location, on 19 June,Blair announcedthat Labour wasonboard.
The nextpressingquestionforthe organiserswas: what was the
Dome actually going to be? Therewerenineideas fo r“zones” –
body,mind, spirit,work,rest, play, local,national, global–but
beyond that,notmuch. Only now, twoyears into the project,was
serious thoughtdevoted to the contentsof thisexhibition,already
beingbilled by the government as “the biggest, mostthrilli ng,
most entertaining, most thought-provoking experienceany where
The Millennium Dome:
was it really so bad?
“The £758m disaster zone” on the Greenwich peninsula
Evenbeforeitopened,ithadbecomeabywordforfailureandNewLabourhubris.
Buttwodecadeson,itcouldbetimeforareassessment,saysImogenWest-Knights
“It was billed as the ‘biggest, most thrilling,
most thought-provoking experience on the
planet’. But no one knew what to put in it”