The Washington Post - 27.03.2020

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THE WASHINGTON POST

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FRIDAy, MARCH 27, 2020

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Ask Tom

excerpts from Post Food Critic
Tom Sietsema’s online discussion

Q: A family member was
supposed to have a wedding that
has since been canceled. The
couple is still getting married in
a small ceremony, so I wanted to
send a gift. They live in

Baltimore, so I thought they
might (eventually) enjoy a fancy
night out. Any suggestions? I
don’t know of any food
restrictions, any type of cuisine.
I’d love dinner for two and

maybe a glass or two of wine in
the $150-ish range?
A: Thoughtful gesture on
multiple counts, because the
purchase of a gift card now is
one way to support shuttered

restaurants.
The hardest reservation in
Baltimore before coronavirus hit
was the intimate Le Comptoir
du Vin not far from the train
station. I see they are selling a
few dishes and lots of wine for a
couple hours a day Tuesday
through saturday. You can
secure a gift card anytime online.

Q: I’m curious what your favorite
pandemic takeout/delivery meal
has been.
A: For the past week or so, I’ve
been ordering from different
delivery services and getting a
range of cuisines dropped off. I’ll
be sharing the roundup soon,
likely before actual print
publication in the Magazine next
month. But let me offer a sneak
peek and say ethiopian food
travels well, pizzas not as much
and some of the best deliveries
have featured soups, which
might need just a quick
rewarming before enjoying.

Q: Looking to support our local
small businesses. I walked by
Lapis yesterday and noticed
they’re doing carryout orders.
Having never had Afghani food
before, what do you suggest my
husband and I try? no allergies,
non-vegetarians, enjoy spicy
foods.
A: You’re in luck! I happen to
have taped a few notes into my
phone during my last meal at the
Afghan outpost in Adams
Morgan. steamed dumplings
with ground beef, sabzi spinach
and tomato-sauced eggplant all
get a thumbs up.

Q: Most D.C. restaurants packed
customers in like sardines. Do
you envision fewer tables in
dining rooms after the worst of
the virus is over? Perhaps fewer
tables and higher prices?
A: I think a lot of details are
going to change — including,
sadly, the number of good places
to eat, everywhere. This
pandemic has hit the restaurant
and hospitality industries
incredibly hard.

Q: one of the restaurant
reviewers in the L.A. Times
wrote a piece titled “What does a
restaurant critic do when there
are no restaurants.” Made me
wonder how you have diverted
your focus. Reviewing take out
options? Cooking at home and
re-creating memorable dishes of
the past? Comfort food? other
food/restaurant related stories?
There is certainly plenty to write
about!
A: everyone has had to pivot, for
sure. Most recently, I wrote
about the effect the closing of the
Inn at Little Washington had on
its tiny town — and the chef’s
invitation for anyone to come
visit the bucolic grounds.
Last week, desperate to find

something positive in the
ongoing crisis, I flagged the good
work being done at miriam’s
Kitchen for the homeless
population. And for the past few
weeks, I’ve been mostly checking
out restaurant delivery and
rethinking my spring dining
guide (oy!).
My partner made spaghetti
and meatballs on sunday. That
was cool. Then he doled out extra
containers to friends. Gotta
share/help out where we can!

Q: I just read your review of
everest Kitchen [in sunday’s
Washington Post Magazine] and
absolutely loved it. I’ve always
appreciated your excellent
writing, but this review felt
particularly wistful and nostalgic
in light of the incredible
circumstances in which we find
ourselves. Thanks for continuing
to post your reviews and host
this chat. How are you holding
up?
A: Aw, thanks for asking. so
sweet. I’m fine, although like
everyone else, I miss my routine
and all the stuff I took for
granted just weeks ago.
What saddens me about the
Everest Kitchen review is, the
owner just this week pulled the
plug on carryout and delivery.
so, no great nepalese food from
his small storefront for the
moment. Fingers crossed, the
restaurant reopens, with the
same general manager and chef.

Q: You mentioned Little serow’s
take out last week — I wanted to
flag that Komi has revived
Happy Gyro in takeout format as
well, and it includes to-go access
to some of the excellent wines in
their cellar. I hadn’t gotten to try
the pop-up before, so this was
one silver lining for us!
A: Just seeing the pop-up’s name
makes me happy. And I love that
the owners are opening their
cellar during the pandemic.
see AsK tom on 11

deB LIndSey For THe WaSHIngTon PoST
steamed dumplings with
ground beef from Lapis in
Adams morgan, which is
offering carryout.

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