2020-03-01 Woolworths Taste

(John Hannent) #1
TABLE TALK

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TEXT

MICHELLE COBURN

EXTRA SOURCES

THE GUARDIAN; VINEPAIR.COM; WINEFOLLY.COM

40 TASTE MARCH 2020

1


Bouquet
“Tropicalaromas,whiffsofgreen
pepperandfynboswithflintinessandan
attractiveminerality,complementedby
gooseberrytonesanda crispfinish.”
Cueextensiveeye-rolling.We’veall
heardsimilardescriptionsattastingrooms
anddinnerpartiesandwonderedexactly
whatthosepeopleweredrinking.It’sjust
a simplematterofwineintheglass,grape
onthenose,alcoholonthepalate,right?
Wrong.Andpleasehearusout– the
morewineyoudrink,themoreyouwill
starttodetectfamiliararomasandflavours


  • vanilla,tropicalfruit,blackberries.And
    that’snotbecausewinemakersaresecretly
    addingtheingredientstotheirbarrelsor
    bottles.Everythingfromthecomposition
    ofthesoilinwhichthevinesgrow,tothe
    pollenfromplantsgrowingaroundthe
    vineyard– eventhesaltysprayofseawater
    atcoastalfarms– canbeabsorbedbythe
    grapesandsubtlyinfluencetheirflavour.
    Inthecellar,thewinemaker’sdecisions–
    fermentingthejuiceinoakbarrelsorsteel
    tanks,forexample – will also affect the
    finalproduct.
    Winescientistsattributethe
    herbaceousnessofSauvignonBlancto
    chemicalscalledmethoxypyrazines(try
    pronouncingthataftera fewglasses!).The
    floralaromasofGewürztraminercome
    fromalcoholcompoundsthatarealso
    usedinperfumes,andthecitrusnotes
    ofChardonnayarelinkedtocompounds
    foundingrapefruitjuice.Sonoticinggrassy,
    jasmineorcitrusyaromasandflavoursin
    yourwineisn’tallthat far-fetched after all.


2


Body
If youhavenoideawhethera wine
is light,mediumorfull-bodied,pay
attentiontohowit feelsinyourmouth
and when you swallow: light-bodied

(likeskimmilk),medium-bodied(similar
to2%milk),ora lotmoreviscousandfull-
bodied(likefull-creammilk)?Thealcohol
contentofthewineplaysa significantrole
here,soa low-alcoholRieslingorProsecco
canusuallybecalledlight-bodied,
a PinotNoirorCabernetFrancis likely
tobemedium-bodied,anda Merlot
orChardonnaywillfeelheavier, or more
full-bodied, in your mouth.

3


Oak
Winemakersagetheirwinesin
oakbarrelstoimpartcolour(thelonger
a wineis oakedfor,thedarkerit becomes)
andflavour(thevanillincompoundin
thewoodtasteslike,youguessedit,
vanilla,whichis oftena characteristicof
Chardonnay).Theartinvolvedinoaking
a wineliesinjudginghowlongtoleave
it forbeforebottling– toomuchoaking
overwhelmsthefruitinessofthewine
withwoodyflavour,muchlikea dish
that’sbeenover-seasoned.

4


Acidity
Thissournessis whatdistinguishes
a flatwinefromonethatbringsyourtaste
budsalive– inmuchthesamewayas
a glassoffresh,zingycitrusjuicedoes.
Aciditybringsalltheflavoursofthewine
togetherandmakesit crispandrefreshing,
enticingyoutopouranotherglass.When
pairingwineandfoodbearinmindthat
acidityis balancedbysalt,sweetandfat,
which is why a Blanc de Blanc sparkling

WINE-TASTING 101


Learn to


speak wine


If youwanttostopwingingit andsoundlikeyouknowwhat you’re
drinking, these are the basic terms you need to know

winegoesreallywellwitha young
Camembert,orevenFrench fries.

5


Terroir
ThisFrenchwordreferstothe
senseofplacecreatedbya combination
ofthesoilinwhichthevinesgrowand
theuniqueclimateandenvironmentof
thevineyard.GrapesfromElgingrowand
ripenunderdifferentconditionstothose
inStellenboschorthevineyardsofthe
WestCoast,andthewinestheybecome
showcasethesedifferences.

6


OldWorld/
New World
OldWorldwinesaremadeincountries
consideredthebirthplaceofwine,
includingFrance,Spain,Germany,Hungary,
Greece,IsraelandGeorgia,wheretheyare
madeaccordingtoage-oldtraditionsand
strictguidelines.Thesewinesareusually
gentlerandlowerinalcohol.NewWorld
winescomefromcountriesincludingChile,
theUnitedStates,AustraliaandSouth
Africa,wheretheclimateis warmerand
winemakersaregenerallylessrestrained
intheirwinemaking.NewWorldwines
tendtobemorefruitforward, full-bodied
andhigherinalcohol.

7


Tannins
Thesearewhatcausesthedrying
sensationinyourmouthwhenyou
drinkwine,especiallyredssuchas
CabernetSauvignon.Tanninscome
fromcompoundsfoundingrapeseeds,
stemsandskins– thelongertheseare
lefttosoakinthegrapejuiceafter
pressing(toaddcolourandcomplexity),
thehigherthetanniccontentofthe
wineandthedrieryourmouthwillbe.
Tanninsarealsoantioxidants,sothe
higherthetannins,themoreyoucanage
thewine(seepage 42 forAllanMullins’
recommendedwinesforageing).

8


Cool/warm
climate
Grapesgrownincool-climateregions
usuallyproducelighterbodiedwines,
whilewarm-climatewinesaregenerally
morefull-bodied.TheCederberg,Hemel
enAardeandCapeAgulhasarecool-
climatewine-producingareas,while
FranschhoekandtheSwartland produce
warm-climate wines.

“Methoxpyrazines
(trypronouncing
thataftera few
glasses!)”
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