TABLE TALK
PHOTOGRAPH
GETTYIMAGES.COM
TEXT
MICHELLE COBURN
EXTRA SOURCES
THE GUARDIAN; VINEPAIR.COM; WINEFOLLY.COM
40 TASTE MARCH 2020
1
Bouquet
“Tropicalaromas,whiffsofgreen
pepperandfynboswithflintinessandan
attractiveminerality,complementedby
gooseberrytonesanda crispfinish.”
Cueextensiveeye-rolling.We’veall
heardsimilardescriptionsattastingrooms
anddinnerpartiesandwonderedexactly
whatthosepeopleweredrinking.It’sjust
a simplematterofwineintheglass,grape
onthenose,alcoholonthepalate,right?
Wrong.Andpleasehearusout– the
morewineyoudrink,themoreyouwill
starttodetectfamiliararomasandflavours
- vanilla,tropicalfruit,blackberries.And
that’snotbecausewinemakersaresecretly
addingtheingredientstotheirbarrelsor
bottles.Everythingfromthecomposition
ofthesoilinwhichthevinesgrow,tothe
pollenfromplantsgrowingaroundthe
vineyard– eventhesaltysprayofseawater
atcoastalfarms– canbeabsorbedbythe
grapesandsubtlyinfluencetheirflavour.
Inthecellar,thewinemaker’sdecisions–
fermentingthejuiceinoakbarrelsorsteel
tanks,forexample – will also affect the
finalproduct.
Winescientistsattributethe
herbaceousnessofSauvignonBlancto
chemicalscalledmethoxypyrazines(try
pronouncingthataftera fewglasses!).The
floralaromasofGewürztraminercome
fromalcoholcompoundsthatarealso
usedinperfumes,andthecitrusnotes
ofChardonnayarelinkedtocompounds
foundingrapefruitjuice.Sonoticinggrassy,
jasmineorcitrusyaromasandflavoursin
yourwineisn’tallthat far-fetched after all.
2
Body
If youhavenoideawhethera wine
is light,mediumorfull-bodied,pay
attentiontohowit feelsinyourmouth
and when you swallow: light-bodied
(likeskimmilk),medium-bodied(similar
to2%milk),ora lotmoreviscousandfull-
bodied(likefull-creammilk)?Thealcohol
contentofthewineplaysa significantrole
here,soa low-alcoholRieslingorProsecco
canusuallybecalledlight-bodied,
a PinotNoirorCabernetFrancis likely
tobemedium-bodied,anda Merlot
orChardonnaywillfeelheavier, or more
full-bodied, in your mouth.
3
Oak
Winemakersagetheirwinesin
oakbarrelstoimpartcolour(thelonger
a wineis oakedfor,thedarkerit becomes)
andflavour(thevanillincompoundin
thewoodtasteslike,youguessedit,
vanilla,whichis oftena characteristicof
Chardonnay).Theartinvolvedinoaking
a wineliesinjudginghowlongtoleave
it forbeforebottling– toomuchoaking
overwhelmsthefruitinessofthewine
withwoodyflavour,muchlikea dish
that’sbeenover-seasoned.
4
Acidity
Thissournessis whatdistinguishes
a flatwinefromonethatbringsyourtaste
budsalive– inmuchthesamewayas
a glassoffresh,zingycitrusjuicedoes.
Aciditybringsalltheflavoursofthewine
togetherandmakesit crispandrefreshing,
enticingyoutopouranotherglass.When
pairingwineandfoodbearinmindthat
acidityis balancedbysalt,sweetandfat,
which is why a Blanc de Blanc sparkling
WINE-TASTING 101
Learn to
speak wine
If youwanttostopwingingit andsoundlikeyouknowwhat you’re
drinking, these are the basic terms you need to know
winegoesreallywellwitha young
Camembert,orevenFrench fries.
5
Terroir
ThisFrenchwordreferstothe
senseofplacecreatedbya combination
ofthesoilinwhichthevinesgrowand
theuniqueclimateandenvironmentof
thevineyard.GrapesfromElgingrowand
ripenunderdifferentconditionstothose
inStellenboschorthevineyardsofthe
WestCoast,andthewinestheybecome
showcasethesedifferences.
6
OldWorld/
New World
OldWorldwinesaremadeincountries
consideredthebirthplaceofwine,
includingFrance,Spain,Germany,Hungary,
Greece,IsraelandGeorgia,wheretheyare
madeaccordingtoage-oldtraditionsand
strictguidelines.Thesewinesareusually
gentlerandlowerinalcohol.NewWorld
winescomefromcountriesincludingChile,
theUnitedStates,AustraliaandSouth
Africa,wheretheclimateis warmerand
winemakersaregenerallylessrestrained
intheirwinemaking.NewWorldwines
tendtobemorefruitforward, full-bodied
andhigherinalcohol.
7
Tannins
Thesearewhatcausesthedrying
sensationinyourmouthwhenyou
drinkwine,especiallyredssuchas
CabernetSauvignon.Tanninscome
fromcompoundsfoundingrapeseeds,
stemsandskins– thelongertheseare
lefttosoakinthegrapejuiceafter
pressing(toaddcolourandcomplexity),
thehigherthetanniccontentofthe
wineandthedrieryourmouthwillbe.
Tanninsarealsoantioxidants,sothe
higherthetannins,themoreyoucanage
thewine(seepage 42 forAllanMullins’
recommendedwinesforageing).
8
Cool/warm
climate
Grapesgrownincool-climateregions
usuallyproducelighterbodiedwines,
whilewarm-climatewinesaregenerally
morefull-bodied.TheCederberg,Hemel
enAardeandCapeAgulhasarecool-
climatewine-producingareas,while
FranschhoekandtheSwartland produce
warm-climate wines.
“Methoxpyrazines
(trypronouncing
thataftera few
glasses!)”