2020-04-01 Bon Appetit

34 – APRIL 2020

Away – My Big Weekend

LOCALS SAY THAT South Philly is one of America’s great

dining neighborhoods. They’re right. Over the past 30 years,

the historically Italian, Black, and Irish area has become one

of the city’s most diverse neighborhoods. The Italian Market is

home to some of the country’s best tacos and tamales. Irish

pubs are flanked by Indonesian and Thai neighbors slinging

spicy soul-cleansing staples. Lebanese, Vietnamese, Black,

Thai, Mexican, Italian, and Indonesian locals not only helm

these spots but frequent them too—proving that they’re truly

neighborhood restaurants. And after hitting up these joints,

you’ll understand what South Philadelphians mean.

The Hot Spots

• Tamalex


• Stargazy


• Bitar’s


• Kalaya


• River Twice


• Café Diem


• John’s Roast Pork


• Sky Cafe

When to Visit

You can’t beat

spring in the city.

Where to Stay

Airbnb is

the move, but just

north of the

neighborhood is

the beautiful

Deacon hotel.

What to Bring Back

Center City

Pretzel Co. soft

pretzels

The Latin

American Mainstay

Two blocks east of the Italian

Market—now a hub for fantastic

Mexican grocers, butchers,

and restaurants like Hot 10 alum

South Philly Barbacoa—is one

of the neighborhood’s top

Mexican joints, Tamalex. The

Mexican-Honduran spot lights

up on weekend mornings when

chefs Alejandro Mondragon and

David Piña serve thousands of

steaming hot tamales. Show up

early—they will sell out—or

come through later for pambazos,

huge sandwiches built on fried

bread dipped in guajillo sauce

and filled with sausage and

potatoes or a fried chicken cutlet.

Don’t skip the bean pupusas, a

simple reminder that pinto beans

are enough to inspire pure joy.

The Savory Pie Expert

When was the last time you

heard someone preach the British

pie shop gospel? Well, here

I go. Chef Sam Jacobson grew

up in England before moving

to Philly, cooking his way across

the city, and ultimately opening

Stargazy. Jacobson’s pastry case

is stacked with deeply savory

pies (and some sweet ones), like

the classic beef and onion or

the Cornish pasty (upon request)

served with fluffy mashed

potatoes and traditional parsley

liquor. But the grail is the sausage

roll: ground pork seasoned with

sage, nutmeg, allspice, ginger,

and garlic and wrapped in a

buttery laminated pastry dough.

Based on extensive research,

I can guarantee you that one

sausage roll will not be enough.

The Middle

Eastern Anchor

Ever since Elias and Mariette

Bitar opened Bitar’s nearly 50

years ago, the Middle Eastern

grocery has been a pillar

of the South Philadelphia scene,

supplying folks with quarts of

tabbouleh, tubs of tahini, and

bags of pita. A few years back,

when their sons took over, the

grocery shifted into a full-service

restaurant, and it’s become even

more of a neighborhood staple.

Grab a corner table and order

dolmas (herby rice wrapped in

tender grape leaves), rich baba

ghanoush, za’atar-seasoned

olives, and the “owner’s favorite

sandwich” (thinly sliced lamb

gyro, crispy falafel, and harissa

mayo stuffed into a pita). One

of the Bitar brothers will remind

you to get it should you forget.

South Philly

...where it’s never been more diverse and delicious

The gang is all here at Tamalex: pambazo, pupusas, and tacos al pastor.

ESSENTIALS

PHILSAODUETLHP^ HIA

by ALEX DELANY

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