2020-04-01 Bon Appetit

66

Scallion Pancakes With
Chili-Ginger Dipping Sauce
4 SERVINGS These pancakes get their

light texture from a batter made with
club soda. Pressing hard on them when
frying makes them crisp.

SAUCE

1 ½" piece ginger, peeled,

thinly sliced

2 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce

2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar

1 tsp. chili oil

1 tsp. sugar

PANCAKES AND ASSEMBLY

1 cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup cornstarch

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. sugar

1 cup chilled club soda

2 tsp. low-sodium soy sauce

1 tsp. toasted sesame oil

10 scallions, thinly sliced on

a diagonal (about 2 cups)

4 Tbsp. vegetable oil

SAUCE Whisk ginger, soy sauce, vinegar,
chili oil, and sugar in a small bowl until
sugar is dissolved. Set sauce aside.

PANCAKES AND ASSEMBLY Whisk flour,
cornstarch, salt, and sugar in a large
bowl. Whisk club soda, soy sauce,
and sesame oil in a medium bowl to
combine, then pour into dry ingredients
and whisk until smooth (be careful not
to overmix; it’s okay if there are a few
small lumps). Fold in scallions.
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium nonstick
skillet over medium-high. Pour ¼ cup
batter into skillet. Cook, moving pan
around on the burner for even cooking,
until bottom of pancake is set and
golden, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook,
pressing down on pancake to create
direct contact with pan, until other side
is golden, about 1 minute. Continue
cooking, turning often to keep scallions
from burning, until golden brown and

crisp and cooked through, about

5 minutes longer. Transfer pancake to a

wire rack. Repeat process with remaining

batter and remaining 3 Tbsp. oil 3 more

times to make a total of 4 pancakes.

Cut each pancake into wedges if

desired and serve with reserved sauce

on the side for dipping.

Charred Leeks

With Honey and Vinegar

4 SERVINGS Don’t be afraid to take the

leeks to the point where they almost look

burnt. A well-charred exterior means the

interiors will be creamy, soft, silky, and

delightfully sweet.

4 medium leeks (about 2½ lb.), white

and pale green parts only, tough

outer layers removed (root ends

left intact)

2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine

vinegar

2 tsp. honey

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus

more for drizzling

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

Prepare a grill for high heat. Rinse off

any sand and dirt from leeks and pat

dry. Arrange directly on grate (no need

to oil) and grill, turning every few minutes

with tongs, until outsides are completely

blackened (leeks should start to soften

and may begin to release some juices),

12–16 minutes.

Transfer leeks to a cutting board

and let rest 10 minutes (the interiors will

continue to steam and get even softer

as they cool).

While the leeks are resting, whisk

vinegar and honey in a small bowl until

honey dissolves. Set dressing aside.

Cut leeks on a diagonal into 1½"–2"

pieces. Transfer to a medium bowl and

toss with 2 Tbsp. oil; season with salt.

Transfer leeks to a platter and

spoon reserved dressing over. Drizzle

with more oil and season with pepper.

ERHAPS YOU’VE NOTICED THE CRAZE: Swarms of chefs

going AWOL to forage for ramps. Farmers market goers elbowing each

other to get to the piles of bulbs and greens. What’s all the fuss? Alliums

bring complexity and backbone to pretty much everything they touch.

And when they’re in season, the bounty of produce arriving at your local

farmers market will be significantly better than the stuff you’re used to

seeing at the grocery store. This spring we’re getting up close and personal with these

fragrant vegetables. Charring leeks until they’re smoky-sweet. Slow-roasting green garlic

until jammy and tender. These recipes make the case: Alliums are worth the hype.

WHAT EVEN

IS AN

ALLIUM?

Onions and garlic: sure. But there

are more. Here’s who gets the

lucky moniker allium—and what

to do with them.

LEEKS

Ah, the gentle giants of the

allium clan. Look for long white bulbs

and stalks with green leaves. Roast

or braise them with your next chicken.

GREEN GARLIC

Think of green garlic—which often

has purple-tinged stalks and flat

leaves—as garlic’s milder sibling.

It steals the show in dressings.

SCALLIONS

They shine year-round. Grill them,

toss into fried rice, nestle into frittatas,

or whip up a sauce by sizzling sliced

scallions and minced ginger in oil and

finishing with soy sauce.

RAMPS

Foraging fanatics freak when these

wild leeks pop up. Whir the greens into

a pesto or sauté the bulbs and greens

in butter with breadcrumbs.

SPRING ONIONS

Slice these sweet and mild onions

into rounds, then scatter them over a

sad salad to make it, well, happy.

Look for firm white bulbs with sturdy

greens that stand upright.

GARLIC

You already know about the goodness

of garlic (you do watch It’s Alive,

after all). Grab a head and give it a

sniff. Good garlic smells earthy.

A garlicky aroma is a sign of bruising.

P