86
Shellfish by
the Beach
Along the rock-lined shore
of Dakar’s western coast
sits a collection of shacks
and food stalls known
as La Pointe, slinging
big portions of seafood
just plucked from the
water. Order from multiple
stands: steamed clams,
buttery uni, grilled grouper
bundled in newspapers,
plus big spoonfuls of
cassava and couscous.
Head to the communal
tables, or take your food to
the beach’s large rocks
for an even better view.Ride the Wave
I may not be a big surfer,
but Dakar’s surfing culture
is undeniable. And with
the hype comes popular
beachside shops like
Surfer Paradise and
hangouts like Secret
Spot (pictured). While lots
of people once considered
surfing a sport for white
people, I’m excited about
how it’s becoming more
and more democratized.the culture of hospitality FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:pungent riff on Portuguese moonshine. You can sip crisp beers on rocky beaches
while devouring platters of steamed clams and salted fish at sunset, then dance
to jazz music till daybreak. Dakar’s emphasis on hospitality weathered centuries
of British and French colonization. In the years following, the city became a hub
for Vietnamese and Lebanese communities who had been displaced by Euro-
pean rule, giving it a distinctly multicultural edge. Dakar, my hometown, is where
I learned to cherish afternoon tea ceremonies, where I spent countless nights at
restaurants that turned into dance parties, grabbing lamb skewers still hot from
the grill at street vendors along the route home. Eventually I built a life in New
York City running my restaurant, which captures the spirit of Senegalese cooking,
named—what else?—Teranga. But I still try to return to Dakar every April, after the
blistering heat subsides but before the torrential downpours arrive. There’s no
better time to come home. —AS TOLD TO JESSE SPARKS
Want to get a taste of West Africa without having to buy a plane ticket? Check out Thiam’s NYC restaurant,
Teranga, or one of his three cookbooks: Senegal, The Fonio Cookbook, and Yolélé.