LENS
Above
A selection of common
wood glues and applicators
Right
Bench hook with 90-
degree straight and
45-degree mitre slot
Left
Bench hook with
adjustable stop
for repeatability
Repeated nicks makeRepeated nicks make
the slot wider,the slot wider,
removing the precisionremoving the precision
BENCH HOOK VARIATIONS
There are two versions of the classic bench hook.
One has a fence shorter than the width of the base
(open-ended). A shoulder is created at the end of the
fence. A handsaw is used with the fence to make a
square cut. Another version has a fine saw-blade
housed in a narrow kerf in the fence. When sawing,
this introduces more control and accuracy, since
there is no way the blade can twist, so you can
achieve precise 90-degree and 45-degree cuts.
A back saw is used with a bench hook as it has a
rigid back. This keeps the blade from twisting,
ensuring a straight cut. Back saws have either rip or
cross-cut teeth. Since bench hooks cross-cut pieces
to length, a cross-cut tooth pattern is ideal. Mitred
slots added to your bench hook increase the
versatility. Pre-cut mitre slots can be standard 30-,
45-, and 60-degree angles.
To create the mitre kerf in the fence, pencil marks
guide a saw-blade into the fence. Small workpieces
held against the fence are then cut at this angle.
The saw blade will eventually nick your bench
hook fence. Repeated nicks make the slot wider,
removing the precision. The slot can be filled in
and recreated, or a new slot made. When no
space remains, the fence can be replaced, or a
new bench hook created. The fence eventually
wears, and accuracy is compromised. Simply trim
the fence end to create a new edge. The bench
hook life is now extended!
Bench hook dimensions
depend on the size of the
components you trim. Small,
portable bench hooks are quickly
positioned. Larger bench hooks
occupy more workbench space,
which is something to consider.
Bench hooks don’t last forever, so
it’s wise to make your own.