The Week UK 21.03.2020

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21 March 2020 THE WEEK

Food & Drink

LEISURE

Whatthe experts recommend:seven of the best curry houses

Imrans 262 -2 66 LadypoolRoad,

Birmingham(0 12 1- 449137 0)

ThisPakistanirestaurantof40years’

standingisoneofthebestinBirmingham’s

“BaltiTriangle”,saysAndyLynesin

TheTimes.Takeyourpickfromarange

ofdelicatelyspicedbaltis,allservedwith

giantnaans.But“don’tignorethemenu

ofauthenticregionaldishes,including

Lahore-stylepayacurry–lamb’strotters

inmasalasauce”.

TheChilliPickle 17 JubileeStreet,

Brighton(01273- 900383 )

ThisBrightonfavouriteservessnacksand

thalisatlunchand,fordinner,achoice

ofcurries.“Themenusteamsacross

IndialiketheRajdhaniExpress,taking

inmuttoncurriesfromRajasthan,Tamil

peanutpakoras,Keralanfishstewsand

Bombaypao,”wroteTomParker-Bowles

inTheMailonSunday,in2 01 6.Eventhe

pickleisa“bittersweetdelight”.

MotherIndia 28 WestminsterTerrace,

Glasgow(0 14 1- 221166 3)

A“trueGlasgowinstitution”,spreadover

threefloors,MotherIndiaisthe“gold

standardinIndiancuisineinoneofthe

currycapitalsoftheUK”,saidMalcolm

JackinTimeOutin 2018 .Don’texpect

kormasorjalfrezis;itspecialisesin“out-

of-the-ordinary”Indiandishes,oftenwith

aScottishtwist–suchasPunjabi-spiced

smokedhaddockwithroasttomatoes.

Atithi 52 MillRoad,Petersfield,

Cambridge( 01223 -662102)

Suchisthesophisticationofthefoodhere

thatit“deservestobepairedwithacitrusy

winefromMaharashtra,ratherthan

Kingfisher”,saysSusanGriffithinThe

DailyTelegraph.Octopusisserved“two

differentways”;spicedrabbitlegcomes

withlambbonemarrowcurry.Andto

accompany:luxuriousdaalmakhani

(blacklentilssimmeredincream)and

a“punchy”chickpeasalad.

Dastaan 447 KingstonRoad,Epsom,

Surrey(0 20 -8 786899 9)

ThefoodatthisSouthIndiancurryhouse

inSurreyhasareal“zipandzing”,said

MarinaO’Loughlinaftervisitingfor

TheGuardianin 2017 .Malabarprawns

incoconutmilksauceare“astudyin

luxurioussubtlety”;porkcheekvindaloo

hasa“haunting”vinegarsharpness.A

favouriteofMichelin-starredchefAngela

Hartnett,it’swellworththetrip,despite

itsfairly“uninspiringlocation”.

Bundobust 61 Piccadilly,Manchester

(0161-3 5967 57)

There’sa“def iningidea”behindthis

vegetarianandveganrestaurant(alsowith

branchesinLeedsandLiverpool),saidJay

RaynerinTheObserverin 201 7:“Indian

streetfoodandcraftbeers”.Itmaysound

annoying,but“byGod,itworks”.Trythe

“lacydosas,thecolourofageingivory”,

orthe“golden”tarkadhal.Thisis

“brilliantvegetariancooking”.

TheMintRoomLongmeadGospelHall,

LowerBristolRoad,Bath(01225-446656)

“Refined,moderndishes”areonofferat

thiselegantBathrestaurant(withanother

branchinBristol),saysAndyLynes.Try

“tawa”(pan-fried)scallopswithfennel,

staraniseandturmericservedwithroasted

peppersandtomatorelish,oreight-hour

brais edWelshlambshankwithspices

andwiltedgreens.

FromaselectioncompiledbyAndyLynes

forTheTimes.

TheChilliPickle:a“bittersweetdelight”

Chilliponzuedamame

Ifyouhaveashortattentionspan,thisisthe

edamameforyou.Theyarereallyspicy,soat

theveryleastthey’renotgoingtobeboring.

Avoid if you are prone to heartburn!

Afew splashes of very hot chilli sauce juice of

½alime 1tbspsoy sauce 2tsp sesame seeds

1tsp shichimi or similar chilli powder

250g frozen edamame

• Have all the seasonings measured and
  ready. Boil the edamame from frozen until
  tender, about 2-3 minutes, then drain.
  Immediately toss with all of the seasonings.

Triple sesame edamame

Three forms of sesame–white, black and

oil –double down on edamame’s subtle

nuttiness, making these exceptionally

moreish.

1tbspblack sesame seeds, roasted and crushed 1tbsp white sesame

seeds, roasted and crushed afew pinches of salt 250g frozen

edamame 1tsp sesame oil

• Stir together the sesame seeds and salt.
  Boil the edamame from frozen until tender,
  about 2-3 minutes, then drain. Immediately
  toss with the sesame seed-salt mixture and
  the sesame oil.

“Cheese and onion” edemame

Edamame, like crisps, haveamindlessly

addi ctive quality. That inspired me to make

this “cheese-and-onion” version, which is

surprisingly easy and insanely tasty.

1tbspnutri tional yeastflakes½tsp onion

granules ¼tsp salt 250g frozen edamame

1tsp olive oil ½tsp vinegar

• Crus hthe nutritional yeast intoapowder,
  then mix together with the onion granules
  and salt.


• Boil the edamame from frozen until tender,
  about 2-3 minutes, then drain. Immediately
  toss with all of the seasonings. Leave to sit forafew minutes
  before tucking in; the steam from the edamame will release more
  onion aroma.

Pimp your edamame

Edamame is fabulously more-ish, but when flavoured just with salt, it can becomealittle boring, says Tim Anderson.

Here are three simple seasoning ideas that will take popping those pods toawhole other level

Taken fromVegan Japaneasyby Tim Anderson, published by Hardie Grant at £22. To buy from The Week Bookshop for £18.99,
call 020-3176 3835 or visit theweek.co.uk/bookshop.
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ASSIMA ROTHACKER