JP MCMAHON
is a chef,
restaurateur and author
and runs the Aniar
Boutique Cookery
School in GalwayIMAGES: ©GINGER AND SAGE 2019; JULIA DUNIN
Rightly or wrongly, Irish food is often
associated with the potato. Yet, the
potato came to Ireland relatively late, only
becoming a staple for the poor in the 18th
and 19th centuries. Dishes heavily associated
with Irish food, such as lamb stew and boxty
(potato pancake), only emerged after the
famine of 1846-1849. This isn’t to say they’re
less relevant to an enquiry into Irish food,
but they can’t be the only story told.
When the first people migrated here
around 10,000 years ago, they ate things we
still encounter today: oysters and seaweed,
nuts and berries, sea and river fish. Irish
food culture has always centred around
what’s to hand, what’s growing on and in
the ground. There’s a wonderful tradition of
using wild food, despite it being something
of an undercurrent to the main tradition ofmeat and vegetables. Shellfish, since ancient
times, has also held a central place in Irish
food culture. It was a vital food for the
earliest inhabitants of Ireland, and there’s
very little we don’t do with it now.
The 21st century sees our food and
its culture growing, in terms of chefs,
restaurants and producers who grow the fine
produce Ireland has always been noted for.
For the first time, I think it’s fair to say ‘Irish
cuisine’ exists. With a focus on the sea and
the land, we can start to craft a food for the
future. That being said, our future needs to
stay cognisant of the past; to the waves of
migration that changed Irish cooking again
and again. The next food wave, whatever it
will be, will come from the outside again.
This is an edited extract from The Irish
Cookbook, published by Phaidon (RRP: £35)THE INGREDIENT
Seaweed is essential
in our larder. Some
varieties, like kelp and
sugar kelp, are great
in broths and stocks,
while others are more
delicate, such as
pepper dulse and sea
lettuce. We use the
more delicate one to
garnish fish, vegetable
and meat dishesGalway-based chef Jp McMahon shares his
passion for local produce and eating outIRELAND
A TASTE OF
Jp’s top three
Galway restaurantsKAPPA-YA
This is a small Celtic-Japanese fusion
restaurant and sake bar located on
Middle Street. Expect beautiful sushi
and a range of Japanese noodle dishes.
WHAT TO ORDER: The bento box — a
beautiful assortment of local food
cooked in a sophisticated Japanese
manner. kappa-ya.comHANDSOME BURGER
These are some of the finest burgers in
Galway, if not in Ireland. Fast and casual
with great service, my daughters and I
often go here for burgers and fries.
WHAT TO ORDER: The ‘handsome
burger’ (with cheese) and loaded fries
— because sometimes you have to be
bold. handsomeburger.comTHE KING’S HEAD
This historic pub and restaurant is
located in the heart of the medieval
quarter. The pub also serves a range of
fish, shellfish and meat dishes.
WHAT TO ORDER: A dozen native
oysters. Close your eyes and imagine
you’re by the sea as you eat them.
thekingshead.ieSMART TRAVELLERMay/Jun 2020 25