National Geographic Traveller UK - 05.2020 - 06.2020

FOR SHOWSTOPPING COASTAL GEOLOGY

THE IZU GEO TRAIL

ROUTE: Tokyo to Shuzenji

LENGTH: 26 miles

The Izu Peninsula, a UNESCO Global

Geopark, is only 94 miles southwest of

Tokyo, but feels worlds away. Either side of

the peninsula are some of the deepest seas

in the world, which serve as fertile fishing

grounds. Shimoda, on the peninsula’s

southern extremity, is where Commodore

Perry’s Black Ships first came to Japan in the

mid-1880s, portending the end of samurai

Japan. This six-day coastal walk follows the

east and west shoreline — although another

option is to follow the peninsula’s spinal

mountains, made famous in Kawabata’s

novel, The Dancing Girl of Izu. On clear days,

Mount Fuji fills the skyline to the north.

FOR GOING OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

THE HOKKAIDO HIKE

ROUTE: Akan-ko to Shikotsu-ko Onsen

LENGTH: 42 miles

This is serious hiking, trudging up and

down peaks in Japan’s last major wilderness.

Even the tour leaders only tend to do one

of these a season. It’s a 10-day trek, and you

can be walking up to eight hours a day and

up to 6,500ft above sea level, overnighting in

small, comfy hotels. There are bears in these

parts, too, so a trained guide is essential,

and the best time to go is between July and

September. You’ll find rare alpine flowers

in mountain passes, hike through forests

and wetlands, and face explosions of water

vapour from dramatic volcanic vents. There’s

the chance to spot wildlife too — sightings

can include foxes, deer and eagles.

Takane

no hana

Literally ‘flower on a high

peak’; beautiful, but out

of your grasp

FOR CONQUERING AN ICON

MOUNT FUJI

START & END: Fuji-Subaru Line 5th Station

LENGTH: Eight miles

Fuji is Japan’s highest and most elegant

peak, a dormant volcano rising to a height

of 12,390ft. It can be hiked between July

and September, and the most popular route

is the Yoshida Trail, which starts out from

the 5th Station (7,545ft). From here, it can

take around six hours to reach the top. An

average of about 30,000 people tackle Fuji

each day and it can feel crowded, particularly

during Obon festival in August, but it’s still

a great adventure. There’s good camaraderie

between those climbing, plus the reward of

reaching the very highest point in Japan. JL

SHIKOTSU-KO ONSEN

AKAN-KO

TOKYO

MOUNT FUJI

KYOTO

SHUZENJI

YUFUIN

FUKUOKA

FROM LEFT: Hikers on the Yoshida Trail

on the way up Mount Fuji; Mount Fuji

from the north side of Lake Motosu as

it appears on the Y1,000 note; Hayashi

Naoki on the Yoshida Trail; sign on the

Yoshida Trail

IMAGES: MARK PARREN TAYLOR

For more information about Walk Japan’s tours,

visit walkjapan.com

JAPAN

May/Jun 2020 63