2020-03-30_Bloomberg_Businessweek

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FOOD Bloomberg Pursuits March 30, 2020

Moreandmorehomecooksarebuildingupan

arsenalofoilstohaveonhand,whetherfancy

extra-virginolive,trendyhemp,avocado,or

argan.Nowperillais makinga caseforitsown

prideofplace.

A longtimestapleinKorea,perillaoilhasa

flavorakintosesamebutwitha morenuanced,

nuttytastebackedupbya hitoflicorice.It

comesfromthetoastedseedsofa large,green

perillaplantcommoninAsia.IntheU.S.,it’s

alsoknownasChinesebasil,buttheleafyplant

is actuallyrelatedtoshiso,inthemintfamily.

Inadditiontohavinga captivatingflavor,

the honey-colored oil is high in omega-6

andomega-9fattyacids—goodforsupport-

inga healthyimmunesystem—andomega-3s,

which have been shown to help prevent

heartattacksandinflammation.(Thisisthe

fattyacidthatmadefishoilsupplementsa

$3billion-and-growingindustry.)“Ithasone

ofthehighestproportionsofomega-3s among

plant-based oils, almost as much as more

famous ones like flaxseed and chia,” says culi-

nary nutritionist Kristy Del Coro.

Perilla oil is also making inroads into Americankitchens

as its health benefits become more well-known and interest

in global cuisines, particularly Korean, grows. Professional

cooks gravitate to it for a plush fattiness that lifts light foods

without overpowering; it works well on raw or cooked sea-

food, plus fresh vegetables. At the Hawaiian restaurant Poi

Dog in Philadelphia, Kiki Aranita pumps up ahi

poke and dresses kale salad with it.

“Perilla oil has an aromatic richness that

makes it a great alternative to standard butter

or olive oil,” says Junghyun Park, chef-owner of

the two-Michelin-starred Atomix in New York,

who drizzles it over sweet shrimp and tosses it

withcucumber.Hegetsit fromGothamGrove,

anonlinesourceforpremiumAsianingredients.

Thestorefeaturesaninfrared-roasted oil ($36

for 200 milliliters): “It’s like giving the seeds a

fancy sauna,” says co-founder Jennifer Yoo. The

infrared rays slowly toast the seeds more lightly

and evenly than conventional methods, produc-

ing a smoother-tasting oil. (It’s also available

through the gourmet food site Regalis.)

Park recommends experimenting with

perilla oil’s many variations. Regular roasted

oilis goodforsautéingvegetablesovermoder-

ateheatorgarnishingcookedones;it alsogives

anunconventionalanise-flavored hit to pesto.

The infrared-toasted oil is excellent drizzled

on crudos, carpaccios, and other raw dishes.

Yoo splashes avocado toast with it. Most del-

icateofallis cold-pressed, untoasted oil, which comple-

ments simple fish and steamed greens. Some health nuts

swear by a spoonful of the raw oil as a morning regimen.

But user, take note: Perilla oil is sensitive, so keep it refrig-

erated once opened, and use within six months. It’s so tasty,

that shouldn’t be a problem. <BW>

SPICYPERILLA

PESTO

CourtesyofGothamGrove

Makesabout1½cups

1 mediumjalapeño,seeded

andchopped

3 garliccloves,chopped

½cuppinenuts

½cupgratedParmesan

1½cupsparsley,coarsely

chopped

1 cupbasil,coarsely

chopped

Salt

⅓cupperillaoil

¼ cupoliveoil

Ina blender,pulsejalapeño,

garlic,pinenuts,andcheese

toa coarsepurée.Working

inbatches,addparsleyand

basil;pulseuntilcombined.

Seasonwithsalt.With

blenderon,slowlypourin

oilsuntilcombined.Add

moresaltif necessary.Use

spicyperillapestowith

pastaandroastchicken,fish,

andvegetables.

Perilla oil is a sophisticated

substitute in salads and sautés

By Kate Krader

Photograph by Ted and Chelsea Cavanaugh

The Light Fantastic

INSIDER INGREDIENT