Wanderlust UK – September 2019

(Nancy Kaufman) #1
Sowhathappened?
In short, the world’s worst nuclear
disaster. In 1986, a reactor in then–
Soviet Ukraine’s Chernobyl Nuclear
Power Plant exploded, causing a
radioactive irestorm and toxic clouds
to sweep over Europe, sparking
mass-evacuations. It devastated the
nearby town of Pripyat, but the
impact on neighbouring Belarus
was cataclysmic – 70% of the
Chernobyl fallout landed there,
a‡ecting 7 million people.

Is it safe to visit the area?
Kind of, which isn’t that comforting, is
it? The lawed reactor was encased
in a concrete sarcophagus, and this
was updated in 2016 with a ‘New
Safe Coninement’ structure to
restrict contamination. It’s strictly
o‡-limits, though – sentry guards
keep a irm eye on it. Touching
anything in Pripyat is forbidden, too


  • toxic particles still linger, clinging
    Shutterstock; Dreamstimeto trees and the fur of stray dogs.


Whywouldyou want to go?
For many travellers, it’s a surreal
insight into an atomic holocaust.
The areas surrounding the Exclusion
Zone – including Pripyat – appear
to be frozen in time, with only about
a few hundred villagers returning
after the incident. While tours on the
Ukrainian side have been going on
since 2011, Belarus only deemed it
safe to start exclusive eco-tours of
the e‡ected area last December.

OK, how do I get in?
For starters, make sure that your
passport is up to date and book
a guided tour; it’s the only way to get
past military checkpoints and into
the Exclusion Zone. Once you’re in,
you’ll see ‘the Bridge of Death’ –
where local onlookers were caught
by wind-bourne radiation – and an
abandoned fairground that was due
to open shortly after the disaster.
Sleep overnight in a small hotel, too


  • maybe just the one night, though.


NEEDTO
KNOW
Trips to the region
have spiked with
tour operator
Explore reporting
a 40% uptick since
last May, largely
due to hit TV series
Chernobyl. Visit
in winter, though –
the snow blankets
the land like a
radioactive shield.
Scientists say
that it’ll be about
20,000 years
before the area
is „it for human
habitation.

3 Chernobyl


sites to visit


1


BELARUS
Belarus’s Palieski State
Radioecological Reserve is
a unique wildlife sanctuary.
It’s Europe’s biggest
wilderness – civilisation has
been swallowed up and
boars and bison roam freely.
Strict safety protocols are in
place here, but visitors can
go on eco-tours for short
periods of time.

2


KIEV Ukraine
If the thought of a trip
to Chernobyl unnerves you,
try Ukraine’s capital, instead


  • Kiev’s National Chernobyl
    Museum opens eyes to the
    cause of the meltdown and
    its aftermath. Then climb
    the bell tower of iconic St.
    Sophia’s Cathedral – a great
    city view is your reward.


3


EXCLUSION
ZONE Ukraine
Wildlife is slowly reclaiming
this area: wolves and stray
dogs are increasing, free
from human intrusion. Head
to the Red Forest and you’ll
see that rare species such
as wild Przewalski’s horses
are thriving. But don’t stray
too far in here – some parts
are still so polluted that you
can barely hear birdsong.

Chernobyl


A bufer guide to...


Nuclear desert
The abandoned
fairground of Pripyat

INSTANT EXPERT DISCOVER


wanderlust.co.uk September 2019 141
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