Wanderlust UK – September 2019

ZIMBABWE

wanderlust.co.uk September 2019 53

fromair-conandaminibar,to
aplungepooloutonthedeck.Later
thatnight,Iheardthesamegrumpy
lionsthroughthecanvas,roaringand
enjoyingtheirmidnightfeasts.
It’safarcryfromourguideNick’s
usualaccommodation.Helefthislife
asasuccessfulCitytradertotravel
acrossAfrica,fallinginlovewith
Manaanditswolvesenroute.His
homehereisadometentinthe
bush,asheaimstoraiseawareness
oftheplightofthepaintedwolves.
Followingtheir 60 minutesof
fameinDynasties,momentumis
growingaroundtheneedtoprotect
thesepredators.Nickhasspent
monthsatatimephotographingand
walkingwiththemoverthepastfive
years,documentingitallinhisnew
book(seeright).Theprofitsfrom
itssalegotothePaintedWolf
Foundation,whichheco-foundedlast
yearinanefforttoraisefundsand
supportfororganisationsworkingon
theirconservationinthefield.
“Iwantpeopletolovethewolves,
justastheylovethelions,rhinoand
elephants,”heexplainedoveraG&T

underastarlitskyonNyamatusi’s

terrace.“Ifwedon’tprotectthem

now,they’llbegoneforever.”

Sisteract

There’smoretoManathanitspainted

wolves,though.BoswellandFred

Astaire,apairofbullelephantswho

havemasteredtheartofstandingon

theirhindlegstoreachforpodshigh

upintheubiquitousalbidatrees,have

starringroleshere,too.Boswell

eludedusbutFredwasquicktoshow

offhistalent,leaningbackandraising

oneleguprighttotearoffabranch

fulloffood.Herdsofcowelephants

hadseveralbabiesintow,someso

tinythattheyfittedcomfortably

undertheirmum’stummiesasthey

suckled,tryingtocontroltheir

waywardtrunks.

Waterbucksandkuduwith

sweepingcurlyhornsstaredaswe

passedby;elegantelandsthesizeof

horsesusuallyfled,whiletheimpala

seemedtojumphighovernothing

orflyacrossthetrackinfrontofus.

Buttheantelopeswerehaving

amuchtoughertime.

Therains,whichusuallyfall

betweenDecemberandApril,

hadfailed.Whatshouldhavebeen

lushgreenlandscapeswerebare

andbarrenbyJune.Mostanimals

wouldstruggleoverthedryseason;

theexceptionwerepredatorslike

ScarfaceandBlondie,twolionswe

cameacrosslyingintheshade

waitingforeasypickings.Andifthe

lionsandhyenaweregetting

stronger,thatcouldproveaproblem

forthepaintedwolves.

Awilddog’slife

(top)Theproceedsfrom

Nick’snewbook,Painted

Wolves:AWildDog’sLife,

gotothePaintedWolf

Foundation,whichNick

co-foundedlastyearwith

conservationistDiane

SkinnerandPeterBlinston,

hisco-authoranddirector

oftheNGOPaintedDog

Conservation;(below)

Nick’sslightlygruesome

photoofpupsatplaywas

highlycommendedinthe

WildlifePhotographerof

theYear 2018 competition

‘Waterbucks and kudu with sweeping

curly horns stared as we passed by, while

impala flew across the track in front of us’

⊳

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