The Week UK - 29.02.2020

41

29 February 2020 THE WEEK

Food & Drink

LEISURE

What’s stopping you shopping at

Aldi and Lidl, asks Jane MacQuitty in

The Times. “True, queues can be

long, shelves areajumble and

restocking is haphazard”. But

the prices can’t be ignored –

which means that more of us

than ever are “stocking our

wine racks from there”.

Aldi’s range includes “tip-top Burgundy and

Bordeaux”, plus some good Italians and New

Worlders. “I’ll even forgive its grubby ports

and champagnes, given how good its crémant

fizz is.” Try the2018 CrémantduJura

(£7.99)–a“fruitychardonnay hit”. And from

its fast-expanding online offering, grab the

“cracking”2016 Châteauneuf du Pape,

Cuvée 13,France(£16.99; aldi.co.uk), which

bursts with “earthy red and black forest fruit”.

Lidl, with no online ordering, isa“bit more

hit and miss” in its stores. But its “seductive”,

“truffle-stashed” 2017 OutlookBay Pinot

Noir,CentralOtago, New Zealand(£9.99)

offers great value for money. And forawhite,

try 2018 Winemaker’sSelection Awatere

Valley SingleVineyard SauvignonBlanc,

New Zealand(£6.99),which is spiked with

“elderflower, green tomato and gooseberry”.

What the experts recommend

TheGallivantNewLyddRoad,Camber,
EastSussex(0 17 97-2 25057 )
ThisrestaurantjustbyCamberSandshas
beenonmyradar“foryears”,saysJay
RaynerinTheObserver.“Newchefshave
comeandgone,andI’veneverquitemade
it.”However,whenIheardthatJamie
Guy,formerlyheadchefoftheMarkHix
restaurantgroup,hadtakenover,I
realisedIhadtogo.Withitsslat-board
panellingand“myriadswimsuits”framed
underglass,thediningroomevokesthe
nearbybeach.Notthatmycompanion
andIgettoseeanyactualdunes:“weare
fartoointerestedinourlunch”.Guy’s
cookingis“unfussyandextremely
satisfying”.A“verygood”starterof
whelkfrittersisfollowedbya“succession
ofrugged,big-thigheddishes”,including
grilledhispicabbagedrenchedwithmussel
butter,andbeefcheek“braiseduntilready
tofallapartwithanudge”.Afterwards,“I
sipamintteaasthewintersunlightdrains
fromthesky,andgivethanksthatIfinally
madeittotheGallivantinRye”.Small
plates£6-£8;mains£14-£32.50.

littlefrench2BNorthView,Westbury
Park,Bristol( 011 79-70 627 6)
Fineindependentrestaurantsopen
withsuchregularityinBristolthatI’m
“consideringsomesortofseason-ticket
arrangementintoTempleMeads”,says
TimHaywardintheFT.Thisnewbistro
issituatedinWestbury-on-Trym,a

“wondroustweenookjustoffthe

Downs”.Theheadchef,FreddyBird,

“isabitofaculinarygrandefromage”

aroundhere,anditdoesn’ttakelongto

appreciatewhy.Langoustines,served

withmayonnaise,tastelikethey’dbeen

“prancinginclear,coldseas 15 minutes

beforetheyperishedontheplancha”.

Lambsweetbreadsandchunksofpig’s

trotteraredressedinaMadeirasauce

madefromvealdemi-glace–a

concoctionsolabour-intensivethat

fewchefsbothertomakeitanymore.

Afterwards,aglassoftherarelyavailable

VieillePruneprovides“theperfect

punctuationtoawarmandgorgeous

evening”.Withitsattentiontodetailand

old-fashionedstocksandglazes,Bird’s

cooking“centresmysoul”.Starters

£8-£12;mains£15-£ 20.

BongBong’sManilaKanteen

460 HackneyRoad,LondonE2

(0775-2 3150 88)

Beprepared,saysGraceDentinThe

Guardian:thismemorablynamedFilipino

placeinHackney–thefirst“bricksand

mortar”premisesofstreetfoodoperator

BBQDreamz–refusesto“playbyknown

rulesofrestaurantconduct”.Initswindow

hangsanenormous“mustard-yellowand

neon-pinkelectricsign”;theinterioris

“deckedoutwithpotplantsandaplastic

livinggreenerywall”;GilScott-Heron

playsonthestereo.It’s“definitelyweird”,

butalsowarm-heartedandconfident.And

solongasyoudon’tmindgettingabit

messy,thefood,inspiredbychefLee

Johnson’stimeinManila,is“pleasing”.

Weeatsatayduckheartsonskewersand

adobo-glazedchickenwings;awhole

tilapia,simplyroasted,and“festooned

withchilliandcoriander”,is“wellworth

theefforttodismantle”.Wefinishwith

bananaandcinnamonspringrolls,served

with“ridiculouslyrich”vanillaicecream.

BongBong’sManilaKanteencertainly

isn’ta“stand-on-ceremonykindofplace”

–butyoucanhavegreatfunherewith

yourfamilyandfriends.About£20-£ 25

ahead,plusdrinksandservice.

TheGallivant:“extremelysatisfying”

• Mix all the marinade
  ingredients together
  and season withalittle
  salt.Stir well.


• Place the chicken
  in adish. Make some
  deep cuts into the
  flesh then pour the
  marinade over. Leave
  for at least an hour to
  marinate, but for best
  results it should be
  left overnight.
  
  
  • Preheat the oven
    to 180°C. Remove the
    chicken from the dish
    and place gently in
    abaking tray, being
    careful not to dislodge
    too much marinade as
    you do. Bake in the
    oven for 25-30 minutes.
  
  
  • Serve withasalad
    andavegetable side
    such as saag aloo or
    tarka dhal.
  
  
  
  

Recipe of the week

Serves 4

8chicken thighs, on the bone for the marinade:150ml Greek yogurt

5cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated 4garlic cloves, very finely chopped

½tsp gara mmasala½tsp cumin ½tsp turmeric ½tsp chilli powder salt

Takeaway versions of this Indian staple tend to be packed with sugar and

coloured bright red, says Dale Pinnock. My home-cooked version avoids

such nasties, and is ridiculously easy for something so delicious

Wine choice

Tandoori chicken

Taken fromFakeawaysby Dale Pinnock, published by Hamlyn at £15.99.

To buy from The Week Bookshop for £13.99, call 020-3176 3835 or visit

theweek.co.uk/bookshop. For our latest offers, visittheweekwines.com