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by this strange American visitor, and I could not help but wonder how much
more surprised they would have been if they had known his identity and
background.
We were, by coincidence, in Pyongyang at the same time that the North
Koreans were celebrating “anti-American month.” As a result, there were
many mass parades and demonstrations, particularly by youth groups. As
we exited the subway near the location of Pyongyang’s famous “Arch of
Triumph,” some of these “mass games” were underway, with large forma-
tions of young North Koreans shouting pro–Kim Il Sung and anti-Ameri-
can slogans. Stilwell was fascinated by the spectacle and refused to leave even
when our very nervous guide insisted. Again, I wondered at the irony of
the former USFK commander observing anti-American mass rallies in a
hostile capital city.
If there were any disappointments during this trip, it was the inability to
spend much time in the countryside or to have a chance to meet many or-
dinary North Korean citizens. The DPRK authorities did not encourage
contact between their citizens and foreigners, and they were especially care-
ful about restricting these contacts once our hosts learned that I could un-
derstand Korean. Hopefully some day this situation will change and direct
contacts between North Korean citizens and outsiders will be expanded. My
impression is, however, that the present North Korean government greatly
fears such open contact, for once the truth about living standards and other
characteristics of the outside world are well known, it will cause a lot of
problems in the North due to the rising expectations of their own citizens.Meetings with North Korean Leaders
General Kim Kwan JinSoon after our arrival in Pyongyang, we met with the DPRK acting defense
minister, Gen. Kim Kwan Jin. Kim and General Stilwell sat side by side as
the two senior members, with the rest of us seated along each side. Kim
initiated the conversation by welcoming us to Pyongyang and assuring us
that it was the policy of his government to encourage contacts between
Americans and North Koreans. He noted that it would have been better if
we had come while still on active duty, which we interpreted as underscor-
ing the desire for “official” contacts with the United States. Stilwell replied
that several of our delegation had indeed visited North Korea previously
while on active duty but had found it to be a bit inhospitable since it was
during the Korean War.