New Zealand Listener 03.14.2020

40 LISTENER MARCH 14 2020

G
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AG

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by Michael Cooper

WINE

The

white

stuff

It’s time to branch out

from the “big three” wine

styles in New Zealand.

Nautilus Marlborough Albariño

2019

Invitingly scented, this

vibrantly fruity, gently spiced

wine is mouthfilling, with a

slightly salty streak and a crisp,

dry, persistent finish. A great all-

purpose wine. (13% alc/vol) $30

Sileni Grand Reserve Advocate

Hawke’s Bay Albariño 2018

This powerful wine was grown

in the Bridge Pā Triangle.

Sturdy, it has generous

peachy, spicy flavours and

a fully dry, crisp, lasting

finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $25

CHENIN BLANC

Astrolabe Marlborough Chenin

Blanc Demi-Sec 2019

Full of drink-young charm,

this attractively scented wine

is fresh and vibrant, with ripe

peach and pear flavours, mod-

erate acidity and a sliver of

sweetness. (13.5% alc/vol) $25

Forrest Marlborough Chenin

Blanc 2018

This harmonious wine was

handled in tanks and barrels.

Fresh and lively, it has citrusy,

peachy flavours, showing a

touch of complexity, balanced

acidity and an off-dry finish.

(12.5% alc/vol) $25

Mt Difficulty Long Gully

Bannockburn Chenin Blanc 2018

This single-vineyard wine

is an off-dry style. Freshly

scented and vibrantly fruity,

it has peachy, citrusy

flavours, showing

excellent vigour,

delicacy and length.

(13.5% alc/vol) $34

GEWÜRZTRAMINER

Askerne Reserve

Hawke’s Bay

Gewürztraminer 2018

This striking wine is

weighty, rich and rounded.

It has concentrated peachy,

slightly spicy and gingery fla-

vours. It is slightly sweet, soft

and lush. (14% alc/vol) $30

Greystone Waipara Valley North

Canterbury Gewürztraminer

2018

Certified organic, this partly

barrel-fermented wine

is highly perfumed and

softly mouthfilling, with

deep stone-fruit and spice

flavours, gentle sweetness

and a rich, well-rounded

finish. (14% alc/vol) $33

Loveblock Marlborough

Gewürztraminer 2018

Offering top value, this

intensely varietal wine is per-

fumed, weighty and rich, with

concentrated, ripe, peachy,

spicy flavours, a slightly oily

texture and a smooth, gently

sweet, lasting finish. (13.5%

alc/vol) $22

Mount Riley Marlborough

Gewürztraminer 2019

Perfumed and full-bodied,

this bargain-priced wine

is invitingly scented, with

peach, lychee and spice

flavours, showing a touch

of complexity, slight sweet-

ness and excellent depth.

(14% alc/vol) $15

Pegasus Bay North Canterbury

Gewürztraminer 2018

Full of personality, this

off-dry wine was matured

in old French oak barrels.

Weighty and rich, it has

concentrated peachy, spicy,

slightly gingery flavours, a

vague hint of honey and a

complex, perfumed bou-

quet. (14% alc/vol) $30

Zephyr Marlborough

Gewürztraminer 2019

Worth cellaring, this richly

perfumed wine is full-bodied,

with concentrated peachy,

citrusy, spicy flavours, gentle

acidity and a long off-dry,

THIS LIFE

S

auvignon blanc,

chardonnay and

pinot gris dominate

our white-wine

consumption.

But don’t miss out on the

wines from several other

highly distinctive grape

varieties grown here. In

Europe, they are celebrated

as regional classics.

ALBARIÑO

Coopers Creek

Select Vineyards

Bell-Ringer Gisborne

Albariño 2019

Fresh, lively and

full-bodied, this

wine has strong

citrusy, peachy,

spicy flavours

and a dry, finely

poised finish.

Although age worthy, it

has great drinkability in its

youth. (13% alc/vol) $22