Eastern and Central Europe (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

(Ben Green) #1
ST PETERSBURG 153

Pushkin House-


Museum w


Музей-квартира А. С.
Пушкина
Muzey-kvartira A.S. Pushkina


Naberezhnaya reki Moyki 12.
Map C3. Tel 571 3531.


10:30am–6pm Wed–Mon.


¢ last Fri of each month. & 8
http://www.museumpushkin.ru


Pushkin was born in Moscow
in 1799 (see p134), but spent
many years of his life in St
Petersburg. From the autumn
of 1836 until his death in
1837, Pushkin lived in this
fairly opulent apartment over-
looking the Moyka, with his
wife Natalya and other family
members. It was here that he
bled to death after his fateful
duel with d’Anthès.
Some half a dozen rooms
on the first floor have been
refur bished in the Empire
style of the period. The most
evocative is Pushkin’s study,
which is arranged exactly as
it was when he died. On the
writing table is an ivory paper
knife given to the poet by his
sister, a bronze handbell and
an inkstand. Embellished with
the figure of an Ethiopian boy,
the inkstand is a reminder of
Pushkin’s great grandfather,
Abram Hannibal. Bought as a
slave in Constantinople in
1706, Hannibal served as a
general under Peter the Great
and was the inspiration for
Pushkin’s unfinished novel
The Negro of Peter the Great.
On the wall in front of
Pushkin’s desk is a Turkish
sabre presen ted to him in the
Caucasus, where he had been
exiled in 1820. It was there


Personal effects in Pushkin’s study,
Pushkin House-Museum


Church on Spilled
Blood e
Храм Спаса-на-Крови
Khram Spasa-na-Krovi

Naberezhnaya Kanala Griboedovazb.
Map D3. Tel 315 1636. q Gostinyy
Dvor, Nevskiy Prospekt. # May–Sep:
10am–11pm Thu–Tue; Oct–Apr:
11am–7pm Thu–Tue. & ^
http://www.cathedral.ru

Also called the Resurrection
Church of Our Saviour, this
church was built on the spot
where Tsar Alexander II was
assassinated on 1 March 1881.
In 1883, his successor,
Alexander III, launched a
competition for a permanent
memorial. The winning design,
favoured by the tsar himself,
was by Alfred Parland and
Ignatiy Malyshev. The Russian
Revival style of the exterior
provides a dra matic contrast
to the Neo-Classical and
Baroque archi tec ture which
dominates the centre of St
Petersburg. The found ation
stone was laid in 1883.
A riot of colour, the overall
effect of the church is created
by the imaginative juxtaposi-
tion of materials. Mosaic panels
showing scenes from the New
Testament adorn the exterior.

Colourful exterior of the Church on
Spilled Blood

They were based on designs
by artists such as Viktor
Vasnetsov and Mikhail
Nesterov. The 144 mosaic
coats of arms on the bell
tower represent the regions,
towns and provinces of the
Russian Empire. They were
intended to reflect the grief
shared by all Russians in the
wake of Alexander II’s assa-
ssination. The perimeter
of the lower wall has 20
dark-red plaques made of
Norwegian granite, which
illustrate key events of the
25-year reign of Alexander II.
Inside, more than 20 types
of minerals, including jasper,
rhodonite, porphyry and
Italian marble are lavished on
the mosaics of the icono stasis,
icon cases, canopy and floor.
The interior reopened in 1998
after more than 20 years of
restoration work.

Mosaic tympanum at the Church on Spilled Blood

that he began his most famous
work, Eugene Onegin, a novel
in verse written between 1823
and 1830. The apartment’s
most impres sive feature is the
poet’s library, which contains
more than 4,500 volumes in a
stag gering 14 European and
Oriental languages. Among
these are works by Byron,
Shakespeare and Dante.
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