Eastern and Central Europe (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

(Ben Green) #1
Old Town Market
Square^4
Rynek Starego Miasta

Map D2. @ 116, 175, 180, 195,


  1. v 13, 23, 26, 32. Historical
    Museum of Warsaw Tel (022) 635


  2. 11am–6pm Tue, Thu,


    10am–3:30pm Wed, Fri,
    10:30am–4:30pm Sat–Sun. ¢ Mon,
    pub hols & one weekend a month.
    & free on Sun. = Note: A 20-min
    English-language film about Warsaw
    is screened at noon daily.




Painstakingly restored after
World War II, the Old Town
Market Square was the centre
of Warsaw public life until
the 19th century, when the
focus of the growing, modern
city moved. The tall, ornate,
and colourful houses, which
lend the square its
unique character,
were built by
wealthy merchants
in the 17th century.
The houses on
one side form the
Historical Museum
of Warsaw (Muzeum
Historyczne m st
Warszawy). This
displays the city’s
history through
paintings, photo-
graphs, sculpture and
archaeological finds. There
is also a film show, with
footage of the Nazis’ sys-
tematic destruction of
Warsaw in 1944. Today,
café tables and stalls line
the square, and horse-drawn
carriages offer tours
of the Old Town.

176 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–21 and pp222–5


The Historical Museum of Warsaw in the Old Town Square

Royal Castle^2
Zamek Królewski


Plac Zamkowy 4. Map D2. Tel (022)
355 5170. @ 100, 116, 175, 178,
180, 195, 222, 503, N44. v 13, 23,
26, 32. # 10am–4pm Tue–Sat,
11am–4pm Sun. & free on Sun.


Warsaw’s Royal Castle stands
on the site of an original castle
built here by the Mazovian
dukes in the 14th century. It
was transformed between
1598 and 1619 by King
Zygmunt III Waza, who asked
Italian architects to restyle the
castle into a polygon. The
king chose this castle as his
royal residence in 1596, after
the Sejm (Parliament) had
moved here from Cracow in



  1. In the 18th century,
    King Augustus III remodelled
    the east wing in Baroque style
    and King Stanisław August
    Poniatowski added a library.
    In 1939, the castle was burnt,
    and then blown up by the
    Nazis in 1944. Funded by
    public donations, it was
    reconstructed between 1971
    and 1988.
    The castle’s fascinating
    interiors are the result of
    its dual role: being a royal
    residence as well as the seat
    of Parliament. It houses royal
    apartments as well as the
    Chamber of Deputies and
    the Senate. Some of the
    woodwork and stucco is
    original, as are many of the
    furnishings and much of the
    art. The coats of arms of all
    the admini stra tive regions of


Cathedral of
St John^3
katedra św Jana

Świętojańska 8. Map D2. Tel (022)
831 0289. @ 116, 175, 178, 180,
195, 222, 503. v 13, 23, 26, 32.
# 10am–noon, 4–6pm daily.
http://www.katedra.mkw.pl

Completed in the early 15th
century, Cathedral of St John
was originally a parish church.
Gaining collegiate status in
1406, it was not until 1798
that it became a cathedral.
The coronation of Poland’s
last king, Stanisław August
Poniatowski, in 1764,
and the swear ing of
an oath by the
deputies of the Sejm
to uphold the 1791
Constitution took
place here.
After World War II,
various elaborate
19th-century addi-
tions were removed
from the façade, and
the cathedral was
restored to its
Mazovian Gothic style.
The interior features religious
art, richly carved wooden
stalls and ornate tombs,
including those of Gabriel
Narutowicz (1865–1922),
Poland’s first president, assa-
sinated two days after taking
office, and Nobel Prize-
winning novelist Henryk

Baryczkowski
Crucifix

Sienkiewicz (1846–1916).
In a chapel founded by the
Baryczka family hangs a
16th-century crucifix, which is
credited with several miracles.

A painting on display in the
Senators’ Room, Royal Castle


the country are depicted on
the walls. Among the
paintings are 18th-century
works by Bellotto and
Bacciarelli. The Lanckoroński
Gallery, on the second floor,
has a collec tion of paintings
including two by Rembrandt


  • Portrait of a Young Woman
    and Scholar at his Desk.

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