Eastern and Central Europe (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

(Ben Green) #1

180 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–21 and pp222–5


Pac Palace 9


Pałac Paca


ul. Miodowa 15. Map D2. Tel (022)
634 9600. @ 100, 116, 175, 180,




  1. occasionally.




This Baroque palace, formerly
the residence of the Radziwiłł
family, was designed and built
between 1681 and 1697 by
Dutch-born architect Tylman
van Gameren. One of the
palace’s 19th-century owners,
Ludwik Pac, commissioned
the architect Henryk Marconi
to redesign it; work was com-
pleted in 1828. The interiors
were decorated in the Gothic,
Renaissance, Greek and
Moorish styles, and the façade
remodelled in the Palladian
manner. The palace gate was
modelled on a triumphal arch
and adorned with Classical
bas-relief sculptures – the


Monument to the
Heroes of the
Ghetto 0
Pomnik Bohaterów Getta

ul. Zamenhofa. Map C1. @ 107,
111, 180.

The city of Warsaw still lay in
ruins when the Monument to
the Heroes of the Ghetto was
erected in 1948. Created by the
sculptor Natan Rapaport and
the architect Marek Suzin, it
symbolizes the heroic defi ance
of the Ghetto Uprising of 1943,
which was planned not as a
bid for liberty but as an hon-
our able way to die. The daring
revolt lasted for one month.
Reliefs on the monument
depict men, women and child -
ren struggling to flee the burn-
ing ghetto, together with a
pro cession of Jews being dri-
ven to death camps under the
threat of Nazi bayonets.
On 7 December 1970, Willy
Brandt, the then chancellor of
West Germany, knelt in front
of this monument, to pay
hom age to the murdered vic-
tims. Today, people come
here from all over the world
to remember the heroes. A
new museum, Museum of
the History of Polish Jews
(Muzeum Historii Żydów
Polskich) is being built close
to the monument, within the
former ghetto area of the city.

Detail from the Monument to the
Heroes of the Ghetto


Umschlagplatz
Monument q
Pomnik na Umschlagplatz

ul. Stawki. Map C1. @ 100,
157, 303, 307. v 16, 17, 19, 33,
35, 36, 41.

Unveiled in 1988, the
Umschlagplatz Monument
marks the site of a former
railway siding on ulica Dzika.
It was from here that some
300,000 Jews from the Warsaw
Ghetto and elsewhere were
loaded onto cattle trucks and
dispatched to extermination
camps. Among them was
Janusz Korczak, Polish-Jewish
author and pediatrician, and
his group of Jewish orphans.
Living conditions in the ghetto
were indescribably inhumane,
and by 1942 over 100,000 of
the inhabitants had died. The
monument, on which the
archi tect Hanna Szmalenberg
and the sculptor Władysław
Klamerus collaborated, is made
of blocks of black-and-white
marble bearing the names of
hundreds of Warsaw’s Jews.

One of the granite blocks marking
the Path of Remembrance

Nineteenth-century Gothic interior of the Pac Palace


work of Ludwik Kaufman,
a pupil of the celebrated
Italian Neo-Classical sculptor
Antonio Canova. Today, the
palace houses the Ministry
of Health.

Between the Monument to
the Heroes of the Ghetto and
the Umschlagplatz Monument
runs the Path of Remembrance,
opened in 1988. It is marked
by a series of 16 granite blocks
bearing inscriptions in Polish,
Hebrew and Yiddish. The
nearby Bunker Monument, on
the site where the Uprising
com manders blew themselves
up, has been specially marked.
Each block is dedi cated to the
450,000 Jews murdered in the
Warsaw Ghetto between 1940
and 1943, to the heroes of the
Ghetto Uprising of 1943 and
to cer tain key individuals
from that time.
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