240 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp288–91 and pp292–5

The magnificent Philosophical Hall, within the Strahov Monastery

Nerudova Ulice 8

Map B3. v 12, 20, 22.
X Malostranská.

A picturesque narrow street
leading up to Prague Castle,
Nerudova ulice is bustling,
noisy and crowded by day, but
becomes deserted at night –
over time, souvenir shops and
offices have replaced the ordi-
nary residents. The street is
named after the poet and jour-
nalist Jan Neruda, who wrote
many stories set in this part of
Prague. He lived in the house
called At the Two Suns (No.
47) between 1845 and 1857.
Until the intro duc tion of
house numbers in 1770, the
city’s dwellings were distin-
guished by signs. Nerudova
ulice’s houses have a splendid
selection of these, featuring
sym bols, emblems and heral-
dic beasts made of stone,
stucco or metal, painted or
car ved. They often indicate a
profession or special inter est
of the former occu pants.
Proceeding up Nerudova’s
steep slope, those of particular
interest include the Red Eagle
(No. 6), the Three Fiddles (No.
12), the Old Pharmacy Muse-
um (No. 32) and the Golden
Horseshoe (No. 34). There are
also many Baroque build ings,
most of which have become
embas sies. Among them are
the Thun-Hohenstein Palace
(No. 20, now the Italian
Embassy), whose entrance is
framed by an imposing portal
with two spread-wing eagles
by Matthias Braun, and
Morzin Palace (No. 5, the
Romanian Embassy). The
façade of the latter has two
vast statues of Moors (a pun
on the name Morzin) support-
ing the semi circular balcony
on the first floor sculpted by
Ferdinand
Brokof. Another
impres sive
façade is that
of the Church
of Our Lady of
Unceasing Succour
(Kostel Panny
Marie v
neutuchajícím
pomoc v nouzi), the church
of the Theatines, an order
founded dur ing the
Counter-Reformation.

Sign of Jan Neruda’s house,

47 Nerudova Street

Strahov

Monastery 9

Strahovský klášter

Královská Kanonie Premonstrátů na

Strahové, Strahovské nádvoři 1/132,

Strahovská. Map A4. Tel 233 107

711. v 22, 23. # 9am–noon,
     12:30–5pm daily. Church of Our
     Lady, Philosophical Hall,
     Theological Hall, Picture Gallery

     9am–noon, 1–5pm daily. ¢

     
     

     Easter Sun, 25 Dec. & 0 =
     http://www.strahovskyklaster.cz

     
     

When it was founded by

Vladislav II in 1140 to serve

an austere reli gious order, the

Premonstratensians, Strahov

rivalled Prague Castle (see

pp232–3) in size. Burnt down

in the 13th cen-

tury, then rebuilt,

it acquired its

present Baroque

form in the 18th

century. In 1783,

during the reign of

Joseph II, the

monas tery man-

aged to escape

dis so lution by declar ing itself

an educa tional estab lishment,

citing its vast library. The

monks were finally driven out

in 1950 by the Communists.

After the Velvet Revolution

(1989), the mon astery resumed

its origi nal function, and

monks can some times be seen

going about their business.

The abbey courtyard is

entered via a Baroque gate -

way sporting a statue of St

Norbert, the found er of the

Premonstratensian Order. The

main monas tery church is the

Church of Our Lady

(Nanebevzetí Panny Marie),

fea turing sta tues by Johan

Anton Quitainer on its façade.

The restored Baroque interior

dazzles with opulence.

Besides the magni ficent altars

and furnish ings, the frescoes

are particu larly strik ing,

cover ing the ceil ing and walls

above the arcades.

Inside the monastery, the

two Baroque libraries are

among the most beautiful in

Europe. The first of these, the

Philosophical Hall (Filosofický

sál) was built to house the

books and book cases from

Louca monas tery in Moravia,

dissolved by Joseph II. The

vault is decorated with a 1782

fresco depicting mankind’s

quest for truth. The second

library is the Theological Hall