Eastern and Central Europe (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

(Ben Green) #1

258 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp288–91 and pp292–5


The lavishly decorated staircase in
the National Museum

Church of Our Lady


of the Snows c
Kostel Panny Marie
Sněžné


Jungmannovo náměstí 18. Map E4.
Tel 224 490 350. X Můstek.


9am–7pm daily. 75


Founded in 1347 by Charles
IV to mark his coronation,
this remarkable church
was once regarded as one
of the great landmarks of
Wenceslas Square (see p257).
According to legend, the
church owes its name to
a 4th-century miracle in
Rome, when the Virgin
Mary appeared to the pope
in a dream telling him to
build a church on the spot
where snow fell in August.
Charles IV envisaged the
church to be over 100 m
(330 ft) long, but it was
never completed. The
building that exists today
was the pres by tery of the
projected church.
The church had a
checkered history. It suffered
damage in the Hussite Wars
(see p228) and was left to
decay until 1603, when it
was restored by the
Franciscans. The intricate net
vaulting of the ceiling dates
from this period. Most of
the interior dec ora tion is in
Baroque style, including the


The towering Church of Our Lady of the Snows


Mucha Museum b
Muchovo muzeum

Panská 7. Map F4. Tel 224 216


  1. v 3, 5, 9, 14, 24, 26.
    X Můstek, Náměstí Republiky.

    10am–6pm daily. 8 -


    http://www.mucha.cz




The 18th-century Kaunicky
Palace is home to the Mucha
Museum, dedicated to Alfons
Mucha (1860–1939), the Czech
master of Art Nouveau. The
exhibits include personal mem-
orabilia, paintings, drawings,
photographs – some taken
by Mucha – and also a docu-
mentary film. The artist’s time
spent in Paris is well docu-
mented. During summer, the
museum’s central courtyard
is converted into a café.

intellectual and artistic life.
The vast room, with windows
overlooking Wenceslas
Square, has four huge paint-
ings by Czech artists Václav
Brožík and František Ženíšek.
The exquisite gilt-framed
glass cupola over head fills
the space with light.
While the rich marbled
decoration is impressive, it
overwhelms the museum’s
displays, which are devoted
mainly to mineralogy –
including one of Europe’s
largest collections of rocks –
archaeology, anthro pology,
numismatics and natural
history. Temporary exhibi-
tions are sometimes held on
the ground floor. However,
the museum is due to close
in 2011 for renovation.

splendid three-tiered gold-
and-black altar, crowded with
statues of saints.

National Museum v
Národní muzeum

Václavské náměstí 68. Map F5.
Tel 224 497 111. X Muzeum.
# 10am–6pm daily, 10am–8pm
Sat. ¢ first Tue of month. &
http://www.nm.cz

The vast and magnificent
Neo-Renaissance building at
one end of Wenceslas Square
houses the National Museum.
Designed by Bohemian archi-
tect Josef Schulz as a trium-
phal affirma tion of the Czech
National Revival, the museum
was completed in 1890. On
closer inspection of the
façade, there are visible pock-
marks left by shells from
Warsaw Pact tanks used dur-
ing the invasion of Prague in


  1. The entrance is reached
    by a ramp flanked by alle gor-
    ical statues; seated by the door
    are the figures of History and
    Nature. In front there is a foun-
    tain symbolizing the Czech
    nation and the Czech rivers.
    Inside, a monumental
    staircase lit by grand brass
    candelabras leads to the
    Pantheon, a dome-topped
    hall. This contains statues and
    busts of the most promi nent
    figures in Czech political,

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