PRAGUE 259

A spectacular ceiling fresco inside the National Theatre

church’s rules allowed only

Christ and the Virgin Mary to

be represented in this fash ion,

but the Jesuits succeeded in

obtaining an exem ption from

the Pope on this occa sion.

Inside, the profu sion of gilt

is truly dazzling.

Charles Square n

Karlovo náměstí

Map E5. v 3, 4, 6, 10, 14, 16, 18,
22, 24. X Karlovo náměstí.

In the southern part of New
Town, built around Wenceslas
Square and Senovážné Square,
lies Prague’s biggest square,
Charles Square. The public
gar den in the square was laid
out in the mid 19th-century
and offers a peaceful and wel-
come retreat. The statues in
the park are of various figures
from Czech history.
Charles Square was created
when Charles IV was establish-
ing Nové Město in 1348. Built
at its centre was a wooden
tower, where the coronation
jewels were put on display
once a year. In 1382, the tower
was replaced by a chapel. It
was from here that, in 1437,
the historic docu ment inform-
ing the Czechs about the
conces sions granted to the
Hussites by the pope was
read out for the first time.
Until the 19th century, the
square was used mainly as a
cattle market and for selling
firewood and coal. On its
north side stands the New
Town Hall, one of Prague’s
finest Gothic build ings, embel-
lished with steep, triangu lar
gables. On the south side is
the magnificent Church of St
Ignatius, built by Italian archi-
tect Carlo Lurago in the 1660s.
The superb façade is topped
by a statue of the church’s
patron saint, St Ignatius of
Loyola. At the time, the

U Fleků, Prague’s finest and best
known beer hall

and construc tion began in

1868. Just days before the
      official opening it was com-
      pletely destroyed by fire. Josef
      Schulz was given the job of
      rebuilding the theatre and all
      the best Czech artists of the
      period contributed towards
      its lavish decoration. During
      the late 1970s and early 80s,
      the theatre underwent resto-
      ration and the New Stage
      (Nová Scena) was built.
      The beautiful Auditorium
      has an elaborately painted
      ceiling by František Ženíšek,
      adorned with allegorical
      figures repre sent ing the arts.
      Equally impres sive are the
      gold and red stage curtains.
      There is also a stunn ing ceil-
      ing fresco in the theatre’s
      lobby. The final part of a
      triptych, painted by František
      Ženíšek in 1878, depicts the
      golden age of Czech art.
      The theatre’s vivid sky-
      blue roof is covered with
      stars and is believed to
      represent the sky – the sum-
      mit all artists should aim for.

U Fleků m

Křemencova 11. Map D5. v 6, 18,

22. X Národni třída, Karlovo
    náměstí. Tel 224 934 019.
    http://www.ufleku.cz

A short walk northwest of

Charles Square is one of the

most famous beer halls in

Prague, U Fleků. Records

indicate that beer was brewed

here as early as 1459. The

own ers of this archetypal beer

hall have kept up the tradition

of brew ing; the present brew-

ery, the smallest in the capital,

pro duces and serves a special

strong, dark beer, sold exclu-

sively on the premises.

Stately façade of the National

Theatre on the Vltava river

National Theatre ,

Národní Divadlo

Národní 2. Map D5. Tel 224 901

448. v 17, 18, 22 to Národní
     Divadlo.X Národní třída.
     Auditorium Tel 221 714 152.

     Sat & Sun for tours. & 8

     
     

     8:30–11am. 7 http://www.narodni
     divadlo.cz

     
     

This gold-crested theatre is

a cherished symbol of the

Czech cultural revival. The

original Neo-Renaissance

building was designed by

Czech architect Josef ZÍtek