Eastern and Central Europe (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

(Ben Green) #1

356 CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE


R Belgrade Church and
Museum of Serbian Orthodox
Ecclesiastical Art
Pátriárka utca 5. Tel (026) 312 399.


May–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun;


Oct–Dec, Mar–Apr: 10am–4pm Tue–
Sun; Jan–Feb: 10am–4pm Fri–Sun.
& 7
Constructed by Serbs but often
known as the Greek Church,
the Belgrade Church (Szerb
Ortodox Egyházművészeti
Gyűjtemény, Könyvtár és
Levéltár) is the Hungarian seat
of the Serbian Orthodox
Monument and pretty colourful houses in Fő Square Patriarch, and is therefore,


Szentendre 2


With its Baroque architecture, Orthodox churches,
cobbled streets and river side setting, Szentendre makes
for an idyllic visit. It is also known for its museums,
which document the history of the region. Originally
founded by the Romans in the 4th century, the town
was settled by Serbian refugees in the 14th century.
They fled here first from the Ottoman Turks after the
Battle of Kosovo in 1389, and again after the Battle of
Belgrade in 1690, ushering in a period of great
prosperity. In the 1920s, many Serbs moved away to be
replaced by artists who were attracted by the town’s air
and light. It remains pop ular with them today.
Entrance to the fascinating Charles
Ferenczy Museum


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp390–93 and pp394–7


P Fő Square
Szentendre Gallery Tel (026) 310




  1. 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. &


    János Kmetty Memorial Museum
    Tel (026) 310 244. # 9am–5pm
    Tue–Sun. & 8 7
    At the heart of Szentendre
    lies the bustling Fő Square
    (Fő tér), which is packed with
    hawkers and street artists in
    summer. A wrought-iron cross
    was raised here in 1763 by
    the survivors of the last major
    outbreak of bubonic plague.
    On the Danube side of
    the square is the Orthodox
    Blagoveštenska Church, built
    between 1752 and 1754
    and designed by András
    Mayerhoffer (1690–1771). Its
    elegantly curved balcony and
    tall, split-level belfry are fine
    examples of late-Baroque
    sim p licity. Inside, frescoes of
    the Roman emperor,
    Constantine, a fine choir
    and a colourful iconosta sis
    depict ing the Annunciation
    vie for attention.
    Opposite the church is
    the Szentendre Gallery, featur-
    ing the work of local artists.
    The building was originally
    a terrace formed by six




identical merchants’ houses;
it was con verted into a
gallery in 1987.
Opposite, in an early-19th-
century Saxon-style house,
is the János Kmetty Memorial
Museum, devoted to the life
and works of the painter
János Kmetty (1889–1975), a
pioneering Cubist who lived
here for 45 years.

E Charles Ferenczy Museum
Fő tér 6. Tel (026) 310 790.
# 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 7
This art museum (Károly
Ferenczy muzeum), north-
east of the Blagoveštenska
Church, houses the work of
Hungarian Impressionist
painter Károly Ferenczy
(1862–1917), who lived in
Szentendre between 1889 and


  1. Rooms here also display
    the works of his wife, painter
    Olga Fialka, and their three
    children: a painter, a sculptor
    and a weaver.
    Although most of Ferenczy’s
    best works are on display
    at the Hungarian National
    Gallery (see p340), the lucid
    and comic Acrobats (1912)
    and his serene Portrait of


P Templom Square
Czóbel Museum Tel (026) 310 244.
# 9am–5pm Wed–Sun. & 8 7
This walled square (Templom
tér), at the top of a hill above
Fő Square, stands on the site
of the original Roman fort of
Ulcisia. The square was the
centre of the town in the
Middle Ages and is popular
today for the views it offers
of the streets below.
The Catholic church in the
middle of the square was first
built in Romanesque style in
the 14th century and reno-
vated in Baroque style in the
18th century. A few original
features remain, including the
sundial on the right-hand side.
Opposite the church is a
charming building housing
the Czóbel Museum. It is
dedi ca ted to painter Béla
Czóbel, famous for his land-
scapes and nudes. He lived in
Szentendre from 1946 until
his death in 1976.

Mrs Sándor Ernst (1916) can
be seen here. The museum’s
fine arts collection has some
8,000 works by local artists.
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