Eastern and Central Europe (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

(Ben Green) #1

460 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp502–505 and pp506–507


Elaphite Isles 2


3 km (2 miles) N of Dubrovnik.
* 2,000. @ g from Dubrovnik
n (020) 324 222.

The beautiful Elaphite
Isles (Elafitski Otoci) were
named after the fallow deer
said to roam here by the
natural historian Pliny the
Elder (AD 23–79). The
islands became a part of
the Dubrovnik Republic
in the 14th century. Only
three of them are inhabited –
Šipan, Lopud and Koločep –
while Jakljan is devoted to
farming. The islands are
characterized by woods
of maritime pines and
cypresses, beautiful beaches
and bays frequented by
pleasure boats. They have
long been popular with the
aristocracy of Dubrovnik,
who built villas here. Many
of the churches date from
the pre-Romanesque per-
iod, although few remain
intact. Some islands had
monas teries, which were
suppressed with the arrival
of French troops in 1808.
The island nearest to
Dubrovnik, Koločep, has
been a popular summer
retreat since the 16th
century. A large part of

R Dominican Monastery
sv Dominika 4. Tel (020) 321 423.


May–Oct: 9am–6pm daily;


Nov–Apr: 9am–5pm daily. &
Located in the eastern part
of Dubrovnik, near the
Ploče Gate, the Dominican
Monastery (Dominikanski
Samostan) was first built in
1315, but it soon became
clear that because of the
size of the complex, the
city walls would have to
be enlarged. The monastery
was later rebuilt after the
earthquake of 1667.
A long flight of steps
with a stone balustrade
leads up to the church. The
elaborate door, by Bonino
of Milan, is decorated with
a Romanesque statue of
St Dominic. The interior has
a wide single nave; hanging
from the central arch is a
splendid gilded panel –
Crucifix and Symbols of the
Evangelists – by 14th-century
painter Paolo Veneziano.
The various rooms of
the monastery, arranged
around a superb 15th-
century Gothic Renaissance
cloister by sculp tor Maso di
Bartolomeo, house the
Dominican Museum (muzej
Dominikanskog Samostana).
It contains an extraordinary
collection of works of art
from the Dubrovnik school,
including a beautiful triptych
and an Annunciation by
Niccolò Ragusino, from
the 16th century. There


are also works of art from
the Venetian school, including
St Blaise, St Mary Magdalene,
and the Angel Tobias and
the Purchaser by Titian, as
well as precious reliquaries
and objects in gold and silver.

Environs
The serene island of
Lokrum, 700 m (2,296 ft)
across the water from
Dubrovnik, is a nature reserve
set up to protect the exotic
plants found there. Its scenic
beauty makes it a popular
tourist destination.
The first inhabitants of the
island were the Benedictines,
who founded an abbey here
in 1023. This was rebuilt in
the 14th century but
destroyed by the 1667

Church of St Dominic, in the Dominican Monastery


Statue of Neptune overlooking the
pond in Trsteno’s arboretum

earth quake. In 1859, the
Habsburg Archduke
Maximilian (1832–67) built
a palace here and renovated
the cloister, which later
became the Natural History
Museum. The fort, built by
the French in 1808, provides
sweep-ing views of the island.
In Trsteno, 20 km (12 miles)
northwest of Dubrovnik, is
an arboretum. Begun in
1502, it is in a park sur round-
ing a villa built by a noble,
Ivan Gučetić (1451–1502),
and has the typi cal layout
of a Renaissance garden,
with grottoes and ruins.
In the middle of the park
is an attractive lily pond,
filled with fish and over-
looked by an impressive
statue of the god Neptune.
Above the park beside the
main road are two huge
plane trees, thought to be
over 400 years old.
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