Eastern and Central Europe (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

(Ben Green) #1

492 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp502–505 and pp506–507


Woodcutters (1959) by Ivan Generalić, Croatian Museum of Naïve Art


Croatian Museum


of Naïve Art 8


Hrvatski muzej naivne
umjetnosti


Čirilometodska ulica 3. Map D2.
Tel (01) 485 1911. # 10am–6pm
Tue–Fri, 10am–1pm Sat & Sun. &
8 = http://www.hmnu.org


Since 1994, this 19th-century
building, with its Neo-Baroque
façade, has housed works from
an exhibition of Naïve painters
that opened in Zagreb in



  1. Inspired by peasant craft
    traditions, the paintings are
    characterized by the use of
    vivid colour and a strong
    feeling for narrative. There
    are paint ings by the founders
    of the Naïve trend, including
    Ivan Generalić and Mirko
    Virius; some new works by
    the Hlebine School of
    Paint ing, which originated in
    the village of Hlebine near
    the Hungarian border; and
    works by artists such as Ivan
    Rabuzin from other regions.


Church of
St Catherine 0
Crkva sv Katarina

Katarinin trg. Map D2. Tel (01) 485
1950. # 8am–8pm daily.

Considered to be one of the
most beautiful religious build-
ings in Zagreb, the Church
of St Catherine was built by
Jesuits around 1630 on the site
of a Dominican building. The
white façade has a door way
with four niches for statues
and six prominent pilasters.
Above is a niche with a statue
of the Virgin Mary. The single-
nave church has one of the
most striking Baroque interiors

Lotrščak Tower 9
Kula Lotrščak


Strossmayerove šetalište. Map D2.
Tel (01) 485 1768. # Apr–Oct:
11am–7pm Tue–Fri, 2–7pm Sat &
Sun. &


Dating from the 13th century,
the captivating Lotrščak Tower,
or Burglars’ Tower, is one of
the oldest buildings in Zagreb
and a remnant of its forti fica-
tions. Since the middle of the
19th cen tury, the city’s inhabi-
tants have set their clocks at
noon by the sound of a can-
non fired from this tower, a Stately exterior of the Neo-Baroque Croatian National Theatre


Croatian National
Theatre q
Hrvatsko narodno kazalište

trg maršala Tita 15. Map C4. Tel (01)
482 8532. # for performances only.
¢ Mon, 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 1 Nov,
25–26 Dec. http://www.hnk.hr

The Croatian National Theatre
stands in the square that marks
the beginning of a U-shaped
series of parks and squares
called the “green horseshoe”,
the design of engineer Milan
Lenuci. Completed in 1895,
the theatre was designed by
the architects Hermann
Helmer and Ferdinand Fellner
and is a blend of Neo-Baroque
and Rococo styles.
The richly decorated interior
is famous for the stage curtain,
which features a patriotic
scene entitled The Croatian
Renewal by painter Vlaho
Bukovac. In front of the
theatre stands a master piece
by sculptor Ivan Meštrović
(see p491) called The Well
of Life, depict ing a group
of bronze figures huddled
around a well.

practice begun in 1877 to
coor dinate the city’s bell-
ring ers. Today, the tower
houses an art gallery and a
gift shop. It is worth climbing
the spiral stair case up to the
terrace for fine views over
the red-tiled roofs of the city.

in Croatia. Of particular
interest are the stucco reliefs
covering the walls and ceiling
made by Antonio Quadrio.
On the ceil ing is a medallion
depict ing Scenes of the Life of
St Catherine by Franc Jelovšek,
while the main altar, dating
from 1762, has St Catherine
among the Alexandrian
Philosophers and Writers,
by Kristof Andrej Jelovšek.
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