SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE 509

Situated in the southwestern Balkans,

the mountainous northern part of

Bosnia has long been paired with

Herzegovina, its smaller neighbour;

both regions are bound by centuries

of common history. Although the

capital, Sarajevo, has recovered from

its wartime ordeal, towns such as

Mostar are yet to be fully restored,

and many settlements remain

abandoned. Despite the danger of

landmines, it is still possible to get a

flavour of the country’s natural

treasures, from mountains and lush

forests to rivers and dramatic gorges,

in the company of experienced local

guides. Rafting on Bosnia’s world-

class rapids is especially popular.

HISTORY

The earliest evidence of human

settlement in the region dates back

to 12,000 BC. However, the first

significant records are of the

Illyrians, who occupied the western

Balkans in the 6th century BC

before the Romans con quered it

some four centuries later. By the 6th

century, attacks by Huns, Goths and

Avars had weakened the Romans,

and the arrival of Slavic tribes from

northeast Europe further added to

the region’s veritable melting pot of

ethnicities. The region was first ruled

by the Serbs, then by the Croats, and

finally by the Hungarians, before

establishing itself as an indep endent

BOSNIA AND

HERZEGOVINA

I

n the light of its tragic history in recent times, it is easy to forget

that Bosnia and Herzegovina was one of the most powerful

states in Europe in the Middle Ages. Although the country

still wears the scars of battle, it nevertheless charms visitors with

its breathtaking scenery, atmo spheric medieval towns and

warm, hospitable people.

The landmark single-arch stone bridge on the Neretva river, Mostar

The pedestrianized Old town market in the capital city, Sarajevo