WHERE TO EAT IN SERBIA 565
BELGRADE
Kafana “?” ¤
Kralja Petra I 6, 11000 Tel (011) 236 5421 Map C3
The oldest surviving café in Belgrade, the “question mark” dates back to 1823 and has changed little since then.
The traditional decor features low tables and wooden chairs and simple local standards such as grilled meats with
home-baked bread are served. An ideal place to take a break while sightseeing.
Ima Dana 7 f Δ
Skadarska 38, 11000 Tel (011) 323 4422 Map E3
The cobbled Skadarlija ulica boasts a string of traditional-style restaurants serving Serbian food to locals as well
as visitors. Ima Dana is one of the oldest and most authentic, offering a varied menu of traditional Balkan dishes
and outdoor seating in a lovely inner courtyard. Live music every evening after about 8pm.
Ipanema ©
Strahinjića bana 68, 11000 Tel (011) 328 3069 Map E2
Despite the Brazilian-sounding name, Ipanema is an excellent Mediterranean restaurant offering superb salads,
delicious pastas and expertly grilled fish dishes. Its location in the bar-lined stretch of Strahinjiča Bana makes it
popular with the hip crowd; it is advisable to book in advance.
FURTHER AFIELD Salaš f Δ ̊
Sinđelićeva 34, Zemun, 11080 Tel (011) 219 0324
A quaint and cosy restaurant in a stylishly decorated period house in the Gardoš district of Zemun, Salaš serves
a combination of Serbian and Central European cuisine. The čuretina s mlincima (turkey with baked shards of
pasta) is the house speciality. It is a good idea to make a reservation.
FURTHER AFIELD Šaran f Δ ̊
Kej oslobođenja 53, Zemun, 11080 Tel (011) 618 235
Occupying a historic single-storey house along the waterfront, Šaran (The Carp) specializes in local freshwater
fish. The extensive menu also features appetizing Adriatic seafood and hearty Balkan meat dishes. The desserts
are highly recommended. Book in advance.
REST OF SERBIA
NIŠ Nišlijska Mehana ¤ 7 f Δ
Prvomajska 49, 18000 Tel (018) 511 111
One of the liveliest places for a night out in Niš, the Mehana, meaning “inn”, features folksy tableware and ethnic
wall hangings, as well as waiters in traditional costume. It is the perfect place to sample regional Serbian meat
dishes, grilled to perfection and washed down with local spirits. Live music in the evenings.
NOVI SAD Plava Frajla ¤ 7 f Δ ©
Sutjeska 2, 21000 Tel (021) 61 3675
A popular restaurant just southwest of the city centre, the “Blue Lady” features chequered tablecloths, chairs
hanging from the ceiling, and black-and-white photographs of Novi Sad. The extensive menu features everything
from grilled meats to Hungarian-influenced goulash. There are also excellent palačinke (pancakes) for dessert.
SUBOTICA Riblja Čarda 7 Δ
Obala Lajoša Vermeša, Palić, 24413 Tel (024) 755 040
This popular out-of-town destination near the shore of Lake Palič is the ideal place to sample local fish dishes.
The in-house speciality is riblji paprikaš (fish stew rich in paprika), usually served with locally made pasta similar
to tagliatelle. The dining room features exposed timber beams and there is an outdoor terrace facing the lake.
Where to Eat in Serbia
Serbian cuisine is largely influenced by Mediterranean,
Oriental and Hungarian culinary traditions. Many estab-
lishments specialize in regional dishes, which although
somewhat heavy, are very appetizing. Most restaurants in
Belgrade serve a great variey of grilled meats, although
there is also a good choice of international dishes.
PRICE CATEGORIES
Based on the price per person of a
three-course meal with half a bottle
of wine, including cover charge,
service and tax
Map References see map of Belgrade pp548–9
Under 1,000 din
1,000–2,000 din
2,000–3,000 din
3,000–5,000 din
Over 5,000 din