109
Above left Well-restored Wachsenberg, Drei
Gleichen Above right Sculptures around the
ornate entrance to the Dom in Erfurt Below
Pretty buildings lining Fischmarkt, ErfurtDRIVE 10: Hilltop Castles and Lush Landscapes
In Goethe’s Footsteps
While JW Goethe admired Ilmenau
town, it was the local countryside
that inspired his artistic and scien-
tific work. Many visitors come
solely to walk “auf Goethes Spuren”
(in Goethe’s foot steps) on the
Goethewanderweg. The appeal
of this 13-mile (20-km) hike to
Stützerbach is its scenic variety.
Marked by Goethe’s ”g” mono gram,
the trail begins in Ilmenau’s Markt
and passes cliffs and caves before it
ascends into high country. Goethe
museums lie en route – the cabin in
which he wrote Wanderers
Nachtlied on Kickelhahn Hill and
the ducal hunting lodge Jagdhaus
Gabelbach (closed Mon), which has
exhi bits on his science studies.
The Ilmenau tourist office (www.
rennsteig-bus.de), in the Amtshaus,
stocks maps of the walk.q Erfurt
Thuringia; 99084
Bursting with history and university
life, Erfurt is a splendid little city and
the capital of the Thuringian state.
It is also the oldest settlement in
the region, with its earliest historical
records dating from AD 729. Ascend
the sweeping steps from Domplatz
to the Dom St. Marien. This cathedral
has a low-lit High Gothic choir, with
original choir stalls, 14th- and 15th-
century stained-glass windows and
Wolfram, a Romanesque bronze can-
dela bra (c. 1160) shaped like a man.
The adjacent five-nave Severikirche
has more Gothic furnish ings and the
sarcoph agus of St. Severus. The main
street off Domplatz, Marktstrasse,
leads to Fischmarkt, sur rounded by
Renaissance patricians’ houses. The
“merchant’s bridge,” Krämerbrücke,
spans the Gera river and has picture-
postcard views.
ª Return to the B4/B7 junction to
take the B7 to Weimar. Follow signs to
Zentrum and park at the Goethehaus
parking lot on Ackerwand.VISITING ERFURTParking
Parking is available in the underground
lot in Domplatz and in a lot beside the
cathedral on Domstrasse.
Tourist Information
Benediktsplatz 1, 99084; 0361 664 00,
http://www.erfurt-tourist-info.de0 Schloss Friedenstein
Thuringia; 99867
The dynastic residence of the
House of Saxe-Coburg (closed Mon;
http://www.stiftungfriedenstein.de)) – better
known in Britain as the House of
Windsor – holds interest for everyone.
Works by Cranach the Elder and a
sump tu ous oil painting of 15th-cen-
tury suit ors, Gotha Lovers, star in an
art gallery. The floors above have
fabu lously stuccoed period rooms,
museums of antiquities and regional
culture, and the perfectly preserved
court theater, Eckhof-Theater. One of
the oldest stages in Europe, it hosts a
drama festival in July and August.
ª Continue on Stieler Strasse,
across the B247, to take the B7 to
Erfurt. At the B7/B4 junction, turn
left on to Heinrichstrasse toward
the Dom. Park in Domplatz’s
underground parking lot.
EAT AND DRINK IN ERFURTSchildchen inexpensive
Hidden away in a pretty riverside
backwater, this rustic-styled Gaststätte
(restaurant) specializes in well-priced
versions of local classics, such as beef
roulade with red cabbage.
Schildgasse 3–4, 99084; 0361
540 22 90; closed Sun
Zum Goldenen Schwan inexpensive
Hearty fare such as Rostbrätel (roast
pork with onions) and home-brewed
beers are served in this traditional inn.
Michealisstrasse 9, 99084; 0361 262 37
42; closed SunEat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40