Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

122

w Burg Stolpen

Saxony; 01833

A picturebook-pretty Marktplatz

shows no hint of Stolpen’s somber

history. Countess von Cosel (1680–

1765), once wooed passionately by

Augustus the Strong as a mistress

and mother to three of his children,

was imprisoned in the lofty

17th-century stronghold of Burg

Stolpen (open daily) for 49 years.

0 Bad Schandau

Saxony; 01814

Spa waters have attracted visitors to

this gentle riverside resort for over a

century. Take the Personenaufzug

(open daily), the 164-ft (50-m) iron lift

built in 1904, to a spectacular

viewing platform. It is advisable to

carry walking boots – an hour’s walk

east leads to another viewpoint at

Schrammsteineaussicht, which

offers sweeping views of the area’s

most fissured plateau. For another

walk, take the Kirnitzschtalbahn

(open daily), the historic tram from

the Kurpark, for a rickety ride up

a wooded valley. Alight at

Lichtenhainer Wasserfall to walk to

the waterfall and a rock arch called

Kuhstall, or cowshed.

ª Return toward the bridge but turn

right before it towards Bastei via

Porschdorf, then a left turn at the

main road toward Lohmen. If the

q Bastei

Saxony; 01847

The astonishing sandstone formations

at Bastei were created millions of

years ago by water erosion. Popular

with 19th-century Romantics, the

area was featured in the fantasy film

The Chronicles of Narnia: the Lion, the

Witch and the Wardrobe. A footbridge

connects the pinnacles that jut high

above pinewoods and leads to the

remains of a 13th-century fortress,

the Bastei (open daily), from where

there are panoramic views over the

river to Festung Königstein. Arrive

early before it gets crowded; there

are postcard views from the path

ascending to the left, before the

bridge. Return to the main road to

drive 1 mile (3 km) east to Hohnstein

village, in an idyllic setting beneath

a castle that is now a youth hostel.

ª Retrace the route toward Lohmen,

and then turn right to Stolpen (left

after Rathewalde if driving from

Bastei). Park on Marktplatz.

WHERE TO STAY

BAD SCHANDAU

Elbresidenz moderate

Five townhouses have been conjoined

to create a smart five-star retreat

with tastefully and stylishly decorated

rooms; the best have views of the Elbe.

Guests can have relaxing massages

in the spa.

Markt 1, 01814; 03502 291 90;

http://www.elbresidenz-bad-schandau.de

AROUND BASTEI

Luk moderate

Set amid gardens in a village and

with just five rooms, this is a charm ing

home-away-from-home. It is an

excellent value for the price.

Basteiweg 12, 01848 Rathewalde

(5 km/3 miles north of Bastei); 035975

800 13; http://www.luk-landhotel.de

BAUTZEN

Goldener Adler moderate

Rather dated furnishings do not

detract from the appeal of the

spacious rooms of this hotel, housed

in a grand townhouse in a central

location. Guests should visit the

romantic wine cellar.

Hauptmarkt 4, 02625; 03591 486 60;

http://www.goldeneradler.de

Above left Ruins of Burg Stolpen on a basalt

ridge Above right Kirnitzschtalbahn tram

running through Bad Schandau Below Verdant

scenery around the Bastei

HIKING AROUND BAD

SCHANDAU

Tourist Information

Markt 12, 01814; 03502 29 00 30;

http://www.bad-schandau.de

inner parking lot is full, park by the

turn-off and use the shuttle bus.

BACK ROADS GERMANY