Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

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EAT AND DRINK

AROUND RÖMERVILLA

Deutscher Hof moderate

This cheerful wine tavern has

a good selection of local vintages.

Johannes-Müller-Strasse 1, 53474

Ahrweiler (west of Römervilla);

02641 90 39 19

Eifelstube moderate

Quality traditional German food

such as venison in elderberry sauce

with Spätzle (Swabian noodles)

is served here.

Ahrhutstrasse 26, 53474 Ahrweiler

(west of Römervilla); 02641 348 50;

http://www.eifelstube-ahrweiler.de

ALTENAHR

Gasthaus Assenmacher expensive

A gourmet restaurant serving

sea sonal specialities such as veal

with pigeon breast, lemon confit,

and pistachio oil.

Brückenstrasse 12, 53505; 02643 18 48;

http://www.gasthaus-assenmacher.de

AROUND BURG ELTZ

Schloss-Hotel Petry

moderate–expensive

Housed in a castle, this restaurant

serves specialities such as ox medallions

with foie gras on asparagus risotto.

St-Castor-Str 80, 56253 Treis-Karden

(south of Burg Eltz); 02672 93 40

COCHEM

Alte Thorschenke moderate

Traditional German food is served

in this atmospheric restaurant.

Brückenstrasse 3, 56812; 02671 70 59;

http://www.castle-thorschenke.com

DRIVE 13: Roman Ruins and Fine Wines

Left Impressive Burg Eltz perched on a

hilltop Below Nürburgring, the Famous

Formula One race track

4 Nürburgring
Rhineland-Palatinate; 53520
Dubbed by British motor-racing driver
Jackie Stewart as “Green Hell,” the
Nürburgring is revered as one of the
world’s most difficult and treacherous
motor-racing circuits. Completed
in 1927, its 73 curves have claimed
dozens of lives. By the
1970s, the course was
deemed too dangerous

for top-class racing, but
in 1984 Formula One
returned to a safer loop.
The track is regularly
used for motor sports and
novelty events, such as old-
timer races, but at other
times it is possible to drive
the course in one’s own vehicle.
There are no speed limits on some
sec tions, though passing on the right
is prohibited. To experience speeds
of up to 199 mph (320 kph), book a
seat in the BMW Ring-Taxi (Mar–Nov:
open Mon–Fri; 02691 93 20 20; http://www.ring-

taxi.bmw-motorsport.com; children must
be taller than 5 ft/150 cm). Otherwise,
visit the excellent visitor center Ring
Werk (open daily) with its many high-
tech racing simulators, films, and
exhibits, which will keep children
busy for hours.
ª Return to the B258 and continue
on it. Turn right onto the B262 to
Naunheim. From here, turn right again
onto a minor road marked for Burg
Eltz to reach the castle’s parking lot.

6 Cochem

Rhineland-Palatinate; 56812

Half-timbered Cochem is striking,

but can sometimes be overrun by

visitors. From the town, a 15-minu te

marked walk leads up to the

town’s main landmark, the Reichsburg

(mid-Mar–Nov: open daily). A turreted,

medie val-style castle built in 1877,

albeit on 11th-century foundations,

its antique-filled interior can be

explored. Take the chairlift, Cochemer

Sesselbahn, (mid-Mar–mid-Nov: open

daily) to the summit of Pinnerkreuz

hill. Located along Endertstrasse, the

main road through the town, the

chairlift offers great valley views as

well as a chancev to walk downhill

between vineyards back into town.

ª Continue eastward on the B49,

which becomes the B53, to follow the

Mosel. At Traben-Trarbach, follow signs

to Bernkastel-Kues, taking the B50 and

the B53 to park beside the Mosel bridge.

5 Burg Eltz
Rhineland-Palatinate; 56294
Tucked in a hidden valley, Burg Eltz
(late Mar–Oct: open daily) is one of
Germany’s most attractive castles. The
construction of its cluster of archetypal
turrets on a perfect knuckle of rock

began in the 12th century and,

though plenty of additions followed,

it has never been destroyed or rebuilt.

It survived despite once being under

a 2 year siege, and was saved during

the French campaigns of 1689 by

having a member of the von Eltz

family in the French Army. The inte riors

are preserved as they were

in medieval times. The

treasury displays valuables

of gold and silver, while the

armory boasts many lethal-

looking weapons.

ª Return to

Münstermaifeld and turn

right to Hatzenport. Then

turn right on to the B416

along the Mosel, which

becomes the B49. In Cochem, use the

parking lot beneath the Mosel bridge.

Coat of Arms,

Burg Eltz

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40