Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Sui) #1

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EAT AND DRINK

AROUND BURG RHEINFELS
Berghotel auf der Loreley moderate
This restaurant in the Burghhotel auf der
Loreley serves traditional German food.
Auf der Loreley, Sankt Goarhausen,
56436 (1 mile/2 km west of Burg
Rheinfels); 06771 809 20;
http://www.berghotel-loreley.de
Loreley Weinstuben moderate
A snug place with fresh fish and an
excellent Reslingschnitzel (veal in wine).
Bahnhofstrasse 16, Sankt Goarhausen,
56346 (1 mile/2 km west of Burg
Rheinfels); 06771 70 68
Zum Goldenen Löwen moderate
The Zum Goldenen Löwen serves
top-notch German cuisine. Specialities
include Braten vom Spanferkal (roasted
suckling pig).
Heerstrasse 82, Sankt Goar, 56329
(south of Burg Rheinfels); 06741 16 74;
http://www.goldener-loewe-stgoar.de
Schlossrestaurant expensive
An elegant restaurant in Hotel Schloss
Rheinfels serving game from the
nearby Hünsrück highlands. Try the
smoked venison with mango salad.
Schlossberg 47, Sankt Goar, 56329
(south of Burg Rheinfels); 0641 80 20

OBERWESEL
Hotel Römerkrug moderate
A range of German favorites, from pork
medallions and steak in wild
mushroom sauce to local fish such as
Zander (local perch), is served here.
Marktplatz 1, 55430; 06744 70 91;
closed Wed, Sat & Sun in winter
Burghotel Auf Schönburg expensive
This restaurant serves seasonal food
made from fresh ingredients; the
menu features many regional dishes.
Auf Schönburg, 55430; 06744 939 30

DRIVE 14: The Romantic Rhine


Above left Remains of a Roman military
camp, Boppard Above right Marktplatz and
Romanesque Severuskirche, Boppard Below
Outer walls of the formidable Burg Rheinfels

The Legend of Loreley
The name Loreley is thought to
originate from the old German and
Celtic words for “lure” and “rock”
and the legend of a lady who
threw her self into the Rhine near
St. Goarshausen in despair over a
faith less lover. On dying, she transfor-
med herself into a bewitching siren
and sat on the rock singing alluring
songs. Distracted sailors would then
fall foul of the under currents and
rocky riverbed beneath the giant
cliff that marks the narrow est point
on the Rhine between Switzerland
and the North Sea.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

5 Loreley
Rhineland-Palatinate; 56346
The giant rock outcrop on the
oppo site side of the Rhine from
Sankt Goar, and above Sankt
Goarshausen, is known as the
Loreley. Vistors can either hike,
drive or take a shuttle bus (Apr–Oct:
hourly) from the ferry terminal to the
summit for breath taking veiws. The
visitors’ center (Mar–mid-Nov: open
daily; Besucherzentrum Loreley; http://www.
loreley-touristik.de) has an English-
language exhibition on the region’s


past and natural history.


6 Oberwesel
Rhineland-Palatinate; 55430
Located on the left bank of the Rhine,
the charming wine town of Oberwesel
boasts a well-preserved 2-mile (3-km)
long medieval wall around the old
town that makes for a good walk.
The local history museum in the
central Kulturhaus (open daily) has
a good collec tion of 19th-century
engrav ings of the sort that helped
romanticize the Rhine and photo-
graphs of the local ladies who have
been crowned Weinhexe – the good
“wine witch” who protects the
wine harvest – every April since the
1940s, follow ing a local tradition.
ª Continue on the B9 to the Kaub-
Langscheid ferry. Leave the car and
cross the Rhine on ferry as a foot
passenger, then take the passenger
boat to Burg Pfalzgrafenstein.

Revolutionary Army who soon set
about demolishing the citadel.
ª Return to Sankt Goar, turn right
down B9 and park at the Sankt Goar-
Sankt Goarshausen ferry terminal.
Leave the car here and board the ferry
across the Rhine as a foot passenger
if intending to walk or take the shuttle
bus up the Loreley, since the tour
returns this way.


ª Return to Sankt Goar on the
ferry and turn left on to B9. In
Oberwesel, park on riverfront.
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