152 BACK ROADS GERMANY
9 Burg Rheinstein
Rhineland-Palatinate; 55413
The compact castle of Burg Rheinstein
(mid-Mar–mid-Nov: open daily; mid-Nov–
mid-Mar: open Mon–Thu & Sun) sits in
a spectacular location 270 ft (82 m)
above the Rhine. After falling into ruin,
the 13th- century castle was acquired
by Prince Friedrich Ludwig of Prussia
and given a com plete makeover in- This helped begin a Romantic
architec tural trend, which swept down
the Rhine and across Germany and
saw many medieval ruins rebuilt as
castles in an age in which fortifica tions
no longer served a practical purpose.
Here, the resulting twee pastel-col-
ored interior rooms seem out of
place in a castle, but con vey a good
sense of the early 19th-century tastes.
ª Continue south on the B9, turn
left over a bridge into Fruchtmarkt,
then Vorstadt and Espenschiedstrasse/
Mainzer Strasse. Follow ferry signs
left down Hafenstrasse. Take the
ferry across the Rhine. Turn right to
Rüdesheim then left down Burgstrasse
to the roadside parking lot opposite
the Rheingauer Weinmuseum.
Right Burg Stahleck towering over the
town of Bacharach Below Canons facing
the Rhine Valley, Burg RheinsteinWHERE TO STAYBACHARACH
Burg Stahleck/Jugendherberge
Bacharach inexpensive
The budget alternative to Auf
Schönburg in Oberwesel, Burg Stahleck
is a 12th-century castle that once served
as the seat of the Count-Palatinate of
the Rhine and is now a stunning youth
hostel. One does not need to
be a member to stay, and most of
the basic rooms are en suite and
sleep between one and six people.
Bacharach, 55422; 06743 12 66;
http://www.diejugendherbergen.de
Rhein Hotel moderate
This family-run, half-timbered hotel
beside the town walls has spotless,
plain, and compact rooms.
Langstrasse 50, 55422; 06743 12 43;
http://www.rhein-hotel-bacharach.deRÜDESHEIM
Burghotel Rheingauner inexpensive
This modest guesthouse in a quiet
neighborhood, just west of the
town center, has bright, cheerful rooms
with fashionably dated 1970s decor.
Oberstrasse 7, 65385; 06722 23 94;
http://www.rheinromantikhotel.de
Central Hotel moderate
A smart family-run place in the
center of Rüdesheim with bright,
immaculate rooms and bathrooms
and an excellent buffet breakfast.
Kirchstrasse 6, 65385; 06722 91 20;
http://www.centralhotel.net7 Burg Pfalzgrafenstein
Rhineland-Palatinate; 56349
One of the most beautifully situated
castles in Europe, the mighty fortress
of Burg Pfalzgrafenstein (Jan–Nov:
closed Mon) stands in the middle
of the Rhine river. With its unusual
island perch, the castle was built
to levy tolls on Rhine shipping.
Construc ted in 1325 by Ludwig the
Bavarian, the castle’s gun bastions
and its present shape are the result
of Baroque refurbish ments in the
17th and 18th centuries.
ª Exit the ferry terminal parking lot
and turn left on to the B9. In Bacharach,
park in the riverside parking lot.8 Bacharach
Rhineland-Palatinate; 55422
The pretty town of Bacharach
has a unique complex of historic
buildings, with fortified town walls,
the church of St. Peter, the ruins of
the Gothic chapel of St. Werner,
and Burg Stahleck – the 12th-
cen tury castle towering over the
town. Once the seat of the Count-
Palatinate of the Rhine, today it is
an impressive youth hostel.
A gate in the town wall, opposite
Bacharach’s main parking lot,
provides access to its 14th-century
fortifica tions, with views of the
huddle of half-timbered buildings.
Among these is the celebrated old
house, Altes Haus on Oberstrasse 61,
which is so wonky that it seems to
lean in all directions at once. This
building and many others house
wine taverns, which serve up local
wines such as Hahnenhof Riesling.ª Turn right out of the Bacharach
parking lot on to the B9. Park at the
signed parking lot beside the B9 in
Trechtingshausen.0 Rüdesheim
Hesse; 65385
Enjoying a picturesque location on
the banks of the Rhine, Rüdesheim
has a long history going back to
Roman times. The town is famous
for its main street, the Drosselgasse,Where to Stay: inexpensive under €70; moderate €70–€150; expensive over €150