DRIVE 14: The Romantic Rhine 155
Invention of the Printing Press
In the early 15th-century, goldsmith
Johannes Gutenberg experimented
with several technologies that led
to the invention of the printing press.
These included the development
of movable metal type and molds,
oil-based inks, and the mechanical
printing press, for which he initially
adapted wine presses. The results
changed the world forever as infor-
ma tion could spread more quickly.
This gave more power to the
masses and helped to spread the
Protestant Reformation.Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40EAT AND DRINKKLOSTER EBERBACH
Klosterschänke moderate
This restaurant at Kloster Eberbach
serves plenty of uncomplicated hearty
dishes, such as pork ragout with potato
dumplings and some lovely wines from
the estate to wash them down.
Kloster Eberbach, Eltville, 65346; 06723
99 30; http://www.klostereberbach.comMAINZ
Haus des Deutschen Weines
moderate
Visit this restaurant for the sheer
number of choices and the reasonably
priced, good-quality German food.
If you don’t want a full meal, try
the traditional accom paniment
Spundekäse (a cheese, onion and
cream dip with crusty bread).
Gutenbergplatz 3–5, 55116;
06131 22 13 00Hotel Schwan moderate
Traditional wine bars or Weinstuben
abound in Mainz, but this cozy place
is the oldest in the region and worth
seeking out.
Liebfrauenplatz 7, 55116; 06131 14 49
20; http://www.mainz-hotel-schwan.de
Maus im Mollers expensive
This modern, upmarket restaurant
blessed with magical night-time views
of the marketplace and the cathedral
offers an often-changing seasonal
menu. Local dishes such as rack of
lamb in goat’s milk with vegetable
chutney are worth ordering when
available. Leave room for the
phenomenal double-layer Sachertorte
(chocolate cake).
Gutenbergplatz 7, 55116; 06131 627
92 11; closed JulDAY TRIP OPTIONS
All the stops on this route can
be visited on day trips. Koblenz
in particular is a good base for
boat trips.Medieval castles and monasteries
Drive along the banks of the
Rhine, stopping at the Marksburg 2 ,
the Rhine’s most attractive castle,
and the unusual islet-based
Burg Pfalzgrafenstein 7 before
arriving at the bustlingtown of Rüdesheim 0 on the banks
of the Rhine. Take its chairlift over
the pretty vineyards to the excel lent
and downhill two-hour walk to
Assmannshausen, with sweeping
Rhine Valley views along the way.
End the day with a sumptuous meal
at the peaceful and atmospheric
Kloster Eberbach q.Take the B42 along the right bank
of the Rhine.Mighty fortifications
Explore Boppard 3 , with its
remaining Roman walls, then ride
the chairlift up to the Vierseenblick.
Next, wander around the splendid
medieval town fortifica tions of
Oberwesel 6 and those of the
quaint wine town of Bacharach 8
before a visit to the Gothic fantasy
castle of Burg Rheinstein 9.Take the B9 along the left bank
of the Rhine.Gewölbehallen (open daily), which
stores its treasures. These include
sparkling reliquaries, intricate 15th-
and 16th-century tapestries, a
13th-century rood screen by the
Master of Naumburg, which vividly
depicts Sin and Salvation, and
some Rococo choir stalls.
Celebrating Mainz’s most famous
son, Johannes Gutenberg, the
Gutenberg-Museum (closed Mon) on
Liebfrauenplatz shows a recon struc-
tion of his workshop from 1450,
and has a rare copy of his first major
work: the 42-line Bible, from 1455,
which was named after the number
of lines on each page. The museum
also puts Gutenberg’s invention in
context with a look at Asian printing
tech ni ques and the hand copying
of manu scripts, which he effectively
turned into a dying art. For a hands-
on experience, visit the nearby
printing shop Druckladen (closed
Sun), where visitors can hand-set type
(aprons are pro vided) to produce
posters, cards, and flyers. Enthusias tic
staff offer guidance to those trying
their hand at printing.
Left Lovely view of the domed Christuskirche,
Mainz Below Wine cellars, Kloster Eberbach